Author: leanagallagher

We slept late today, like 8:30 late. It’s cool and rainy today, so we took advantage of it. Coffee in the room, slow wake up, and Brad has a little head cold. Could it be because he was outdoors on a 30 degree day with a baseball cap instead of a real hat and scarf? Took him to Pringle, took him to Fraser, extolled the virtues of cashmere in Scotland – he wasn’t having it.

On another note, Kirsten’s bag made it home with her in one piece.

Jeff and the girls ended with a bang — no surprise there. They started the day playing virtual cricket, headed to Carnaby Street, Chinatown, then off to meet California friends for a pre theatre dinner at a Pub and to see the show, Matilda, in the West End. They found a make your own bubble tea shop, then took pictures with buses that have the same number as your birthdate. They would have fun no matter where they are. I couldn’t hope for better. And they are off – hope they sleep on the plane!

We’re having an easy day today – a taxi to the East End to see Barra’s Market and the famed Barrowland Ballroom, a favorite of David Bowie’s.

The East End might be better for college students than us geriatrics, so we hopped in another cab to the Hunterian Museum at the University of Glasgow in the West End. Much more our speed. The buildings we visited are the “new’ buildings, that date from 1870. The university is five centuries old.

The Gothic Revival architecture is everything you hope it to be. You feel smarter just walking around. The museums are amazing – with ancient Roman ruins from sites in Scotland, to dinosaurs, to the history of medical equipment.

And then there’s what we really came for, Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret MacDonald Mackintosh’s home. Designed by them, every window, chair and stick of furniture as well as the textiles. The home is perfect and thankfully preserved. This was designed in 1891 – I’d live in it today.

And the most beautiful piece, in my estimation

One table with all that intricate work. We need to find out who the craftsmen were. It’s one thing to design, another to execute. The curator thought that because there were so many ship wrights in Glasgow, that maybe the furniture was made as a side hustle.

That’s enough sightseeing for today – we headed back home for tea and massages. The hotel has a magnificent spa (I remembered it from our last stay) and we both had terrific therapists. Pictures of the spa tomorrow.

Off to dinner at the Ox and Finch. BEST MEAL IN THE UK. Glasgow has a great food scene, not that London doesn’t, but London gets all hypey- Glasgow is more artistic with less overhead. A chef who cares can really make it what he or she wants. You all know that I’m Ottolenghi crazy, but this is better. I don’t say that lightly.

For those who care read on (Wendy, this means you). Rookie mistake, we ordered homemade bread and butter – and ate it all. Then we ordered almost everything on the menu – truly. Fried artichokes with home made yogurt doused with an Aleppo chili butter, smoked fish with pickled Spanish peppers and paprika, hake with squid and chickpeas with aioli and fresh celery (a game changer- the bright crunch), a lamb ragout on the softest polenta with crunchy pickled onions, braised whole carrots in this walnut gremolata in a pool of beurre blanc, cabbage with Roquefort and pears and really good steak and chips (Brad’s pick). Can’t tell you how special each dish was, and no we didn’t finish half of it, but I was like a kid in a candy store.

Needless to say, I’m back under crisply ironed sheets with a very happy belly. I will sleep with the angels tonight.

7600 steps. Slackers.

It’s as we remembered it. A bit forlorn with moments of unspeakable beauty. A mixture of grandeur and decay and so much potential. You all know Brad – he loves a challenge – in every run down-opulent building he envisions the future. His mind is going a thousand miles an hour, he asks everyone questions, he is googling businesses and real estate prices and imagining the city as it should be.

The architecture is just beautiful. It’s almost crying to tell you it’s history. Every building has a story, and the most beautiful ones have the patina of a bygone era. They were built in the 1800’s when Glasgow was the largest trading port in the world. After I finish with Christopher Wren and Isambard Kingdom Brunel (I do love that name) I am going to study the history of Glasgow – we’ve always felt attached to this city. Brad has a reason – his 3rd great grandfather lived and worked in Paisley, just down the road, but me? Can’t explain it.

We walked up Garnet Hill to the Glasgow School of Art (a Charles Rennie Mackintosh building that has burned down twice!) and saw an exhibit by Joan Eardly, one of their former students. The building is still under repairs, but there is a feeling within that building that’s hard to describe. There is some true energy there – it’s one of the world’s best art schools and draws folks from around the world, but it’s different – it’s almost spiritual.

We walked down the hill and around to the Tenament House,the home of Miss Agnes Toward from 1912 – 1965. It was very much like a Historic New England property. We got to see how an average Glaswegian lived during the two world wars — it was a time capsule. She saved things and lived a very compact life. Upon her death, her apartment was to be cleared until a young woman saw that it was a peak into 1920’s Glasgow and saved it. Now this quiet maiden lady is known to everyone who visits. I love these stories.

After that we headed for Dim Sum (Brad had chicken noodle soup).

Over to the River Clyde to see the fabulous Zaha Hadid Riverside Museum. We spent close to two hours with boats, trains, subway cars, bicycles and motorbikes. Brad was in heaven. If there is a car museum, we will find it.

Back to the City Centre ON A BUS at Brad’s request (he’s warming to public transport) and into Scotland’s version of Harrod’s, House of Fraser.

Back to the hotel for tea and a rest, followed by an early dinner at the hotel.

The name of the restaurant is Iasg (pronounced ee-usk), and the seafood is pristine. Fried Cumbrian oysters, smoked haddock and clam chowder and grilled plaice. All perfectly executed.

A short walk to the Royal Concert Hall to see the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (lotta royals in that description) and back home for the night. The orchestra was good, the chorus was great, and the composer/conductor was fair. We didn’t fall asleep, so that’s saying something.

14,000 steps today in a very chilly, but clear and sunny Glasgow.

Kirsten had her final night in the UK and the V’s put in another full one.

The V’s went out early on a very windy chilly day.

Kirsten got her 3rd new suitcase and repacked it and met Paul after class. They headed to Selfridge (please watch that series) and then the Mayfair mercato for an Italian lunch. A great send off before heading to Heathrow to sleep at the airport before an early morning flight.

The V’s did what the V’s do and traversed the city. They headed to Greenwich so Jeff could replicate the BBC announcers saying “Greenwich Mean Time”. They ended the day with Dim Sum and Cadbury ice cream in their jammies.

Kirsten checked into her hotel and had dinner at the airport overlooking the planes over London. Sad to go, but a good week.

One down. The V’s have another day, and we have 3 more in Scotland. It all goes by so fast.

Leaving London was hard. We just started to feel at home. We found the little breakfast places and markets, we finally knew east from west, we could use the Tube, and we’d hit all the high notes. Now it’s time to get comfortable, and poof – it’s over.

Well, almost over. Kirsten’s new suitcase had a defective zipper. Her other also new suitcase had the wheel ripped off, so we bought this one on Wednesday – she got it all packed….. and then had to unpack it, return it, and get a new one. Talk about a fire drill!

We left her feeling comfortable that she could navigate London well and head off to Euston Station to get the train to Glasgow. The view from the train was magical.

‘Why Glasgow?” everyone asks; because we like it. Edinburgh is gorgeous, the Highlands are stunningly beautiful and soul filling, Glasgow is gritty, and multicultural, and old and a bit worn down at the heel, and ever so charming. It’s just like Noto in Sicily – not the most historic, not the most beautiful, but so full of personality and individuality and charm that we just love it. And the people! So warm, so kind, so generous. It’s manageable, there are no American tourists, and we live like Scotsmen for a few days.

We stayed in this hotel a few years ago, The Blythswood Square, and loved it. Years ago, it was our first stop and we landed early and the early check in room wasn’t ready. We fell soundly asleep in the lobby in the alcove (3rd picture above) – they had to wake us to get us into our room.

I mentioned multicultural, right? Huge Asian population and restaurants here. Food scene is terrific, and quality of the food is outstanding. Brad’s first night in Scotland — no one needs to be tortured — so we settled on a lovely pseudo American restaurant called Dakota. Cool, hip bar, lovely waitstaff, and truly delicious and innovative food. Celeriac starter followed by halibut in a ham hock broth with chanterelles, a waffle with truffles and pumpkin roasted with curry and dolloped with homemade herbed yogurt. Brad had steak, Cesar salad and fries. Everyone went home a winner.

I took a long bath, watched some cheeky British political commentary show, and am snuggled under a freshly pressed duvet next to a contented snoring husband.

9446 steps today and delighted. Leaving you with this:

Thanksgiving is always such a special time, but this year was wonderfully special. We celebrated at a pub in Rotherhithe very close to the site from which the original British pilgrims left. (they actually left, found that the boat needed repairs, came back and left again from Plymouth, England). What is the name of the pub, you ask? The MAYFLOWER

We started the day with ridiculous donuts because it was Thanksgiving.

We took a tour with Robert from London Walks about Isambard Kingdom Brunel – God, I love saying it – what a name. He designed that beautiful Tower Bridge we saw last night, plus many others, but his most important achievements were his tunnels and steamships.

The first tunnel under water was his, and it was a pedestrian tunnel, originally, then became the first subway tunnel under water. This revolutionized the city. He also invented and built the largest steamship of its time and laid the telephone cable connecting the new world with the old world. Just a genius.

We started on boat, walked a bit, took the underground and the overground and ended up in Rotherhithe and in the church that dated back to our pilgrims.

The pub was just behind the church and has been there (in some iteration) since 1596.

As usual, we included a few friends in the festivities – Paul’s roommate, TJ and Nicholas Furnald joined the fun. The pub had a great vibe and great food.

We ate and drank and didn’t even feel bad for the staff because they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving!

We’re pros at the Tube, so we made it home without incident and hung around, and took a walk, and did a puzzle and found American Football on the Telly. Exactly what the day should be like.

We started with a British scholar and ended watching football – best of both worlds. Oh, and here’s the view from the shores of Rotherhithe.

Only 12,000 steps today, but it felt like we covered a lot of ground.

Happy Thanksgiving!

The accomplishment of the day was a climb to the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral. We weren’t expecting to do this, but it just happened. The day started out leisurely enough – a bit of shopping, takeout from Ottolenghi, cappuccino and a croissant – and then a short ride on the Underground.

Paul was at school, the V’s headed up to Sky Garden to see the panorama of London, and we headed to St. Paul’s Cathedral and spent at least 2 hours bathed in the majesty that is Christopher Wren. Windsor Castle was opulent, but St. Paul’s is otherworldly.

There is no way to capture it with photos. Huge, intricate, so well designed, and so much history! We listened to the architectural tour, the art tour, and the history tour. The story is amazing, and I will surely begin reading more about Wren when I return. He was a true master, and designed no less than 53 churches in London along with other notable buildings.

As I was gazing up to the top of the dome, I saw movement…people could go up there and see the mosaics directly? So I found the stairwell, and up we went — to the dome and then further to the outdoor parapet. 375 steps up (and down). The views were amazing, and the thought that I could (and did) do it, was even better.

Off to the Mithraeum, the site of a Roman underground temple in the middle of what is now The City of London, which was known as Londinium 2500 years ago. The drawing in the middle shows you a depiction of what ancient Londinium looked like. Fascinating stuff.

Then off to see some of our own history, the Fidelity International Investor Center. Had a great chat with a couple of representatives.

Then on to the Tower of London. As we were steeped in London’s history all morning, we decided to go full bore and see the fortress of the Kings. Much to our dismay, there were 210 steps up into the tower.

Up we went to see the home of the Norman, Plantagenet and Tudor Kings, so well displayed and with such knowledgeable guides. We learned more about 14th century battles than we knew existed.

And as night fell, we saw the Tower Bridge all lit up!

The V’s spent the morning traipsing over the bridge, under the bridge and around the bridge! They hit the markets nearby, went to an F1 arcade and met us for a light show at the tower along with a tour of the Royal Jewels.

We were all pooped! We were hoping to settle in to a pub and inhale some much deserved calories, but we couldn’t find anything suitable, so we dragged our tired behinds home and found sustenance in the ‘hood. Paul crashed, the V’s ordered in Indian, and we had fish and chips.

As we strolled home under the Christmas lights and the ginkgo trees we all felt that London has become familiar and homey. Our neighborhood feels like Boston in so many ways.

I leave you with this beautiful ginko tree.

22,000 steps today and 585 stairs climbed.

We had no morning agenda, we put in a full day yesterday, and we slept a bit later knowing that we could. We all had breakfast in our flats, and took our time heading out.

Paul spent the morning with us as we did the circuit of London Emporiums- Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Harrods. Lots of walking through Mayfair and Knightsbridge and the beauty that is English architecture was on view.

The Liberty store was built in 1924 out of Timbers from ancient British battleships. It’s as beautiful a building as the speciality of its fabric designs (45,000 of them created to date). It is a marvelous place to shop.

Harvey Nic’s is Harvey Nic’s, you just feel special and never quite as turned out as you should be when inside.

Harrods, that monster of a tourist trap with all the things that make it such a special place on earth. That it remains still so very special is a miracle in our point and click culture. Yes, it was a madhouse, yes it was splendidly surreal, and yes, we took a photo in the elevator because it was so beautiful.

And then there is walking through Mayfair and Knightsbridge. The side streets, the luxury homes, the flowers everywhere, Walton Street, the poshness of it all.

The V’s were busy with pancakes and Selfridges. They shopped and ogled and loved every minute of that fabulous store (if you haven’t seen the Masterpiece Theatre, Mr. Selfridge with Jeremy Piven, you need to). Then they ambled over to Harrods and discovered even more treasures!

We all caught up for high tea with a Scientific flair at the Ampersand Hotel. The girls concocted drinks and made cocoa and we all had a proper afternoon respite.

The V’s headed out for more sightseeing and we decided to cab it back home. Stuck in interminable traffic near Hyde Park, we started bantering with our cabbie who was a very frustrated young man – he argued with other drivers, expressed his displeasure with his occupation, thought the city mayor was an idiot, couldn’t imagine why so many people were driving mid day, and on and on. I tell you this because he was frustrated with his lot — he felt too many immigrants were taking his jobs, that the government was caring for foreigners and not veterans, that there was a sinister plot afoot to oust his British Anglo Saxon male status to that of a beggar. It’s not just in our country that nationalists are angry. He finally admitted that his mother was an immigrant too, but he held fast for “Britain for the British!” I guess every immigrant group has been and will be hated universally. (long sigh).

We popped out of the cab and picked up our morning purchases at Liberty and decided a bit of air was needed, and walked back to the flat. With clear heads, we dressed for dinner and met the V’s at a hip little Italian joint called Circolo Popolare.

The decor is really beautiful, the vibe is very Instagram, and food was good. Not gonna win an award, but an entertaining experience. As Kayla said “the best part is spending time with you”. We always have such a good time when we’re together – it makes such wonderful memories.

We split back up to head home and got a few more snaps on the way.

Another day, another 18,000 steps.

Our first order of business was to meet King Charles, so we headed to Windsor Castle, where he was in residence today.

We met over coffee at a great neighborhood cafe and our concierge, Paul, organized the transportation via the Elizabeth Line and a bus to Windsor. We ran into a lovely couple,who serve as guides at Windsor, who showed us the Council Hall where King Charles and Camilla got married, and discussed the building as rather new – 1685, “paint still wet”.

King Charles really was in residence today, but we didn’t get to see him. We did get to see about 30 of the 900 rooms of Windsor Castle. We weren’t allowed to take photographs, so you’ll just have to image the total splendor of the place. Priceless works of art, thousands of pieces of armory displayed in the most amazing ways, porcelain, furnishings and just the most elaborate decorative architecture you can imagine. And then there was one room with a large picture window that looked over the grounds, the private golf course and the Thames. The sky was a miraculous blue, there was mist in the distance, and the rolling green fields with mature trees and gardens and fountains as far as the eye could see. It was otherworldly.

The best part about it was that we had been taking in an hour of the most beautiful works of art from every part of the world, in the most opulent setting, and we were all riveted by the sun, the garden and water. It’s amazing how powerful nature is.

We strolled around the town, had lunch at The Prince Harry Pub and took a real train back to London where the girls got to visit Paddington Station.

We all took a break and made a cup of tea and rested a bit before we all went our separate ways for the evening. The V’s did fun food and ice skating at Somerset House, Kirsten Paul and I had a pre theatre posh dinner at Bentleys followed by Jersey Boys and King Lear. It was an eclectic night, but we each got to do our thing – best part about traveling with these guys, we have fun together and apart.

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Brad and I were so energized by Kenneth Branaugh’s Lear that we decided to walk home. Kirsten and Paul took the Tube. We both came in the entrance to the building at exactly the same time from opposite directions. We couldn’t have timed it better.

A long, fun-filled day. Step count was 18,000. Tomorrow morning should be interesting.

I was up early today because my sleep is still off – I’m sure I did sleep, but it felt very superficial. Kirsten got up with us and we decided to go for breakfast at Ottolenghi. I promise you that I will never tire of the place.

Brad and I headed out to Hampstead for a walking tour and Kirsten and Paul went up to Primrose Hill and over to Buckingham Palace. We all got lots of fresh air.

I think Paul walked Kirsten about 9 miles around London. No problem eating these.

Brad and I learned about a gorgeous, pastoral area of London called Hampstead, home to many artists from the past and present – so many artists, writers and poets have lived here because of the views and landscape. The real draw is the Heath, an enormous woodland area that makes you feel as though you’re in the Cotswolds.

After the walk, we went over to Kenwood, a beautiful English estate given to the country by the Guinness family and chock full of exquisite art work. The home, grounds, furniture and art are just so uplifting they are almost spiritual.

Unlike Sir Richard of the Wallace Collection, there doesn’t seem to be any seedy story behind it, and you can almost feel that within the place.

We got the call that Jeff and the girls landed (after 10 hours in the air), and we headed over to their flat to get them checked in.

It was a joyous reunion and everyone is so excited to be in London together!

They did a quick change and met us for a proper Sunday Roast at The George, with special guests, Kim and Nicholas Furnald, who were also in London.

We talked and laughed and traded seats and drank and ate and even had sticky toffee pudding. A lovely end to a beautiful English Sunday – a walk in the woods followed by a sumptuous dinner with family and friends around the table. Such happiness.

The V’s trotted home to get some much needed rest, and a proper English taxi miraculously appeared to whisk us home and keep us under 6 miles today. A good time had by all.

Kirsten arrived at 8:00 AM and we woke up with a start barely 10 minutes before and quite stiff from all the walking yesterday. It was a comedic greeting as we struggled into clothes so we could greet her in the lobby.

Paul trotted over shortly after. Sadly, Michael had exams he couldn’t wriggle out of and a class that he needed to be at on Monday, and Missy needed to be at home, so we carried on without them.

We fortified ourselves at Ottolenghi and then poked into food shops on the Marleybone High Road. So much gorgeousness.

With Paul as our guide we headed over to the House of Parliment for a tour. Wow!

Almost no photography allow in Parliment, but we did find a statue of Lord Chatham, who was Prime Minister at the turn of the19th Century.

Very interesting tour in such a magnificent building.

A good long walk along the South Bank, over the bridge and back to Somerset House and a tour through The Savoy Hotel.

Enough walking, so back to the flat via The Tube. Ampy hasn’t taken a subway in over 50 years, but he did for Paul.

A bit of a rest, a cup of tea, then we went to one of Paul’s haunts and ate so quickly we had no time for pictures.

Almost 17,000 steps and full bellies. We’ll sleep tonight and welcome the V’s tomorrow!