Author: leanagallagher

We woke up in the Emilian countryside to birds singing and fog along the forest around us. We ate and drank far too much last night, but it was a lovely memory.

We were abstemious at breakfast – no zabaglione on the cotechino. The food is luscious, but we’d had enough of it. As we were leaving, Charlie Bottura came in. He’s as adorable as he was on the Instagram show.

Off to Venezia! we dropped the car and hired a boat to take us into the city. Brad loved it.

The Pope was just here a few hours ago, it was the end of a long weekend, so Venice was hopping and the ride was sort of like dodgems.

The boatman rang our hotel, and a team met us at the dock to escort us to the hotel, 3 minutes away. I sort of felt like the Pope. Another hotel with a deceiving entrance.

Oh, and did I mention the bathroom with the radiant heat floor and towel warmers and heated toilet seat?

Scored once again.

We took a walk and I’m not much of a shopper, but there are some lovely, unique stores. I truly wish I had Cathryn’s genes right now, but I can’t seem to fritter away the day in a store.

We took full advantage of the complimentary bar and made Negroni’s in our suite. Massimo’s record collection inspired us, so we connected the Bang and Oleufson system and played a little jazz.

We asked about a gondola ride and Philipo arranged for one. As we dressed for the evening out, I remembered that I brought a bit of Chazy with me. She came to Venice on her 30th birthday and I still have the picture of her on a gondola that she framed and took with her for the next 40 years. There is one last drop of her favorite perfume, Quadrille, by Balanciaga, and I brought it with me and put it on.

Philipo escorted us to the gondolier, Alviso. Quiet magical night.

Dinner reservations were at the fine dining room at the hotel. We were seated and the menus presented….. 8 course tasting menu. No way. We couldn’t do another night like that. They graciously escorted us to the Cafe, where we ate a lovely, light meal (for Italians)

A walk around the piazza at night and it brings us right up till midnight. Snuggled in my warm robe and slippers while I write this and Brad sleeps soundly. I met Brad in 1986 – 38 years ago. We spent 8 hours a day together for 13 years and have been a couple for 25 more. A lifetime, if you’re lucky.

Noi siamo fortunati.

We hit some high notes for each of us today.

First of all, Casa Maria Luigia is really special. The beds are perfect, the linens are pressed crisp, the pillows are soft, the bathroom is grand. Secondly, all the common rooms are decorated exquisitely, and you are encouraged to hang in them. Have a drink, play a record, read a book, enjoy the original art…

Breakfast is elegant, decadent and convivial. You sit at communal tables, you mingle with guests, the staff keep bringing you gorgeous plates of delicacies and the room is filled with windows and light.

This breakfast is featured in the latest cookbook, and I’ve made most of it, but it was better here and I got some pointers. The cotechino with zabaglione and balsamico was a highlight.

We travelled to Maranello to see the Ferrari museum. It was a madhouse!

We had tickets, but still – it took an hour to get in, and you guessed it, parking was a chore.

However,

Most of the visitors were Italian, and they love their cars. I read a lot of history about the company, and I practiced reading in Italian.

Once we saw every single car in the museum and read about their horsepower, drivetrain and wheel base, we left for…

The Enzo Ferrari Museum in Modena.

This was a much saner experience and an elegantly laid out museum (and we got a parking spot!). Special cars displayed as works of art and a well done documentary on Enzo Ferrari.

Yes, I was tired of taking pictures of cars.

Back to the casa and a little rest and some music. I’m loving the turntable in the room and all the records.

We had an aperitivo with the lovely Valentina, chatted with a guest, and headed over to Al Gatto Verde for dinner.

Before I bore you with every course of dinner, the ladies room is in the Bottura’s gym and car collection:

The artwork everywhere is truly amazing. The whole complex is like your best dream.

Dinner was exceptional in every way. Food, service, ambiance, pacing – just perfection. Chef Jessica Rosval was in the kitchen tonight and we got to say hello. She’s been part of the team for years and is a real advocate for underprivileged women and trains them in food service jobs. And boy can she cook!

Oh, and a really good Sangiovese.

Slow food and fast cars. What a day.

We walked back through the manicured grounds — birds chirping, dogs in the distance, cool breeze and gravel crunching under our heels. We won’t forget this night.

Sogni d’oro.

I slept deeply for the first time this trip in Verona. I love this place and we’ll be back. Breakfast was a joy and Naima, at Il Relais, truly made us feel special. I can’t wait to come back – maybe opera season? Are you listening Carleen? This could be fun.

We left with a wonderful feeling and headed towards Parma to eat the cheese and prosciutto and see the Duomo before heading to Casa Maria Luigia in Modena. The usual traffic nonsense on the autostrada frustration of where to park in Parma, but we took it in stride.

We only spent a few hours in Parma, a lovely city, but I’m not feeling any great rush at going back. Beautiful and easy to get around, but no place to linger. The Duomo was amazing. It looks ho hum on the outside, but inside, it’s overwhelmingly beautiful. You could spend a full day just there, and I think we spent at least an hour – that’s saying something for us. Each nave was done by different artists in totally different styles. This is going to sound crazy, but they reminded me of Bergdorf’s windows at Christmas — each one totally different and equally special. Amazing to think about how it was constructed and how each artist was selected.

We had a light lunch at a joint in the piazza — nothing special, but just a lovely afternoon with delicious charcuterie. The culotello makes prosciutto seem like deli ham.

Finally the trip to Modena to Casa Maria Luigia — we planned our trip around the dates they were available. A magical spot with magical staff. What started as a pipe dream during Covid with a daily Instagram show with Massimo Bottura and family called Kitchen Quarantine and twice weekly Zoom Italian lessons, had finally materialized as a dream come true. As we were driving here, my two friends from my Italian class wrote that they are both in Italy and we should extend our stay and see them. Kismet? I may try. Your thoughts?

Really gorgeous grounds. Super primo Italian country house. Our penthouse suite is transportive. Two floors, a third floor cupola and a small terrace. A killer sound system with 50 vinyl records spanning decades of music, a TV room, giant bath and modern works of art in a perfectly minimalist setting. Snacks and robes and slippers – heaven.

So far we’ve played ‘60’s jazz, Sade, Sarah Vaughan, David Bowie, and Elvis is next.

After a stroll we headed to the Acetaia (vinegar distillery) on the grounds to see how traditional balsamico is made. Carolina told us about the process – Trebbiano Spania grapes are harvested, crushed and cooked down to “must”. Then it’s fermented until the alcohol leaves in steel vats, then put into old wooden barrels , much like Scotch whiskey and it’s left to age for a year or so. Then it is transferred to another set of old barrels in the attic of the Acetaia to breathe the air and moisture for up to 25 years. Quite a project!

There was a tasting and some mingling with the other guests and we conversed with these two lovely young people (30 maybe?). It warms my heart to know there are 30 year olds who care enough about culture to go to a vinegar tasting and have dinner here. But guess what? They are from Jacksonville, FL!!! The world is a small place.

We spent aperitivo hour with Valentina in the public rooms while she made us drinks. Brad had Franciacorta (officially widely taste tested on this trip as better then Prosecco – sorry Giulio), and I tried a Negroni with a vinegar instead of Campari — a Vingroni?? She is a world traveller and wants to pursue setting up culinary and cultural travel itineraries (another cool 30 year old) – Raluca, she’s going to call you.

We rested for a bit and then dressed to go out and try a little local restaurant that the Botturas eat at called La Nunziadenia. As we were leaving the property, I heard this voice….

Massimo!!!!

Just home from India where they fund a program to feed children, and we caught him for the few minutes he was on property. He was gracious and warm and Brad told him a story about making tortellini, we laughed and he let us have a photo.

Dear Lord.

Off to Nunziadiena and dinner cooked in traditional ways. Brad had veal, I had lamb, we shared tortellini in brodo and drank a lovely local Lambrusco. To navigate the menu, Alessandra was called from the kitchen to help us with what Faraona was (Guinea Fowl), and we struck up a lovely conversation with yet one more interesting 30 year old. A San Francisco native, who moved first to Spain, then here to hone her cooking skills. She’s met a boy, she’s bought a house, and she’s like family at La Nunziadiena.

Back at Casa Maria Luigia – a house made amaretto and a few cookies in the library before trotting upstairs to bed. What a day. Everything I could have wished for.

As we drove west from Asolo this morning, we (Brad) noticed that all the factories had no cars is the lots.

When we got to Verona there were hundreds of Italians in the streets. It was a madhouse here and we couldn’t figure out why until we asked our waiter — I had totally forgotten that April 25 is a national holiday here. Wow! They take it seriously.

First of all, the sun finally showed itself this morning – glorious!

Our drive was not without a large traffic jam and a re routing, but we made it to Verona by noon. We got into the city center and couldn’t find the hotel, and this is why – here’s the entrance:

I got queasy – what had I done?? Then this:

The kids are alright. Thank you Giulio for the recommendation!

Overlooking the castle, we have a prime spot and a luxurious room in this most beautiful city. We are still in the Veneto region (thought we had left for Lombardia), but it feels different. It almost feels a bit Swiss. Elegant piazzas, hundreds of little streets with tumbling greenery and magnificent doors, palazzos converted into condos, but still looking regal, just an elegance about the place. The River Adige runs around the city and its walkways are lined with linden trees. There is a sophistication about the city. This feels like a city I could live in – it has a manageable scale and a bit of everything.

There is an ancient coliseum-like arena in the center of town where operas are performed, a number of amazing churches and public buildings and of course, Juliet’s balcony. There was too much to take in, and I got tired of taking photos and just drank it all in. Here are a few:

And then there was lunch. By far the best pasta we have ever eaten with superior wine. 4 Cuochi is a must in Verona.

Nothing makes me happier.

A good long walk and an afternoon nap got us to 7:00 PM. Time to step out for an aperitivo. The city was bathed in light, what my friend, Amanda, calls magic hour.

It was just so otherworldly. There’s a large wall that surrounds the town and everyone was eating at the outdoor cafes, and the young kids were traveling in beautiful packs, and we were surrounded by magic.

The restaurants were heaving, so we got off the main thoroughfare and found this little gem.

There was no room for us, but it was such a special place tucked into an alley.

We walked a bit more and ambled up to the restaurant in our hotel called Locanda Castelvecchio. It’s a very old building that used to be a Salumeria. It has been a restaurant for 44 years and serves a traditional Veronese specialty of roasted meats and boiled vegetables. I know, doesn’t sound great, but so delicious!

So there was veal breast, roasted beef, steamed ham, tongue brisket, steamed tongue, roasted pork, boiled neck, and cotechino. Boiled onions, carrots and fennel as well as parsley sauce, apple mostarda with pomegranate, and a pepper bread sauce. Of course I tried it all. Everything was expertly done and bursting with flavor, but the cotechino was other worldly. Brad opted for fresh pasta with a trio of sauces he concocted on his own.

Then there was a dessert trolley with a pandoro bread pudding, zuppa inglese, tiramisù, gelato and chocolate sauce, two kinds of candied cherries and crème anglaise. We passed on all of that – the meal was totally filling, but it was a great show to watch them prepare the desserts.

A guest we met at the hotel ambled in and she joined us for an amaro. We talked and laughed until 11:00.

We’re snuggled back in our lovely room wishing we had more days in Verona. I could live here for sure – it’s nice to dream.

The weather has not broken, actually more cold rain today, but when you have lemons, you make lemonade. Cappuccino in bed while Brad had his American breakfast and read the NYTimes in the lovely garden room.

We’ve not really explored the property because of the rain, but the Villa is well sited with lovely gardens and three terraces leading to an infinity pool overlooking the valley. The hotel rambles on in a hidden way. Guests approach the breakfast room from all parts of the garden where their rooms are nestled. The town of Asolo is the same way, it looks unassuming and tiny, and every corner is another area to explore.

The roads are so narrow and ancient that we are always sure they are one way, then a Fiat comes roaring by from the opposite direction.

And there are truly lovely art galleries, and textile weavers, and cafes jewelers and $900 loafers in many windows.

We decided to take a drive, hoping that the rain would stop, so we went into Treviso today. This is the Commune capital and has a university and many museums. The River Sile rings the city and has lovely walkways and even boat rides along it.

We went to two of the Civic Museums, Museo Bailo, 20th Century works and sculpture by Arturo Martini and then to the Museo Santa Caterina, which was extensive and creatively displayed.

We were the only folks in the place and got to take our time and be silent with the art.

The day wasn’t without its share of frustrations. The art galleries have no parking lots (Dorothy, you’re not in Kansas anymore). This is an ancient city – every inch is built on in stone. We hadn’t anticipated this, so we drove and drove to find a place to put the car, and then….. the car wouldn’t start again. “No key found”.

Call Hertz – no English representatives, wait for a call back, still not good English, wait some more. It finally started, but when we did get an English rep, our choices were to be towed or once we got it started to drive back to Venice for a replacement car. We are keeping the car and have decided it was an isolated incident.

This is an ugly picture, but this is what I mean about no place to park anything. The crane is INSIDE THE BUILDING and the roof is opened to let it out. No place to put a crane!

We made it home, a little rattled (exquisite pizza for lunch helped calm us), and decided to spend the day at the Centro Benessere – Wellness Center. You reserve it just for the two of you and Svetlana massages you (while schooling you on Ukrainian politics) then you have the steam, sauna and rainfall showers to yourself. No pictures, but you get the drift.

A lovely conversation with our bartender and waiter from Abruzzi and the Ivory Coast, and a light dinner and off to bed. We discussed Rocky Marciano, the Siena Palio and the 72 languages spoken in the Ivory Coast. What a treasure trove of employees this place has!

I will never call red cabbage anything but Cavolo Violetta again!

Off to Verona in the morning. Our host there just wrote to confirm everything and with “I remain in your service, madam”. I love Italy.

We slept long and hard and woke up to another day of “fa brutto tempo”. Unseasonably cold and rainy, but after a lovely breakfast (yes, Brad had bacon, eggs and toast) and the loan of an umbrella, we decided to explore the town. We got as far as the castle, and the rains came – our cue to go visit Giulio and Alexandra.

Snow capped mountains, a steam engine in cafe’s yard and sheep and donkeys led the way to the true Prosecco region of Valdobiadene and the village of Vidor. We met Giulio and Alexandra in Romania 10 years ago and became fast friends. They recently inherited an 11th century Abbey and we couldn’t wait to visit. It’s breathtaking. www.abbaziadisantabona.com

Abbazia Santa Bona has a storied history, and was the home Giulio grew up in. Sited on the Piave River with curated woodlands and a treasure trove of antiques, it’s like your best dream of Italy. He and Alexandra and the children live there part time and are trying to find the best use for it – it should be shared. If my best and brightest have some ideas, please send them my way.

We talked and laughed and Giulio made lunch and Alexandra took us on a walk through the forest. It was like stepping back in time. We have toured a lot of ancient structures, but there is a feeling here that is special. There is much work to do, but it’s more of a mission of preservation than commerce. It has to be done.

Yes we are in Italy, yes we are visiting friends in an 11th century abbey, yes we are drinking Prosecco from their vineyards and eating fabulous local food, but we shared a day with friends. We traded ideas, we caught up, we laughed, we hugged. That was the most beautiful part.

Stopping to smell the roses with dear friends is what makes life worth living.

And on to Villa Maser which was designed by Andrea Palladio in 1570. A perfect example of what we now call “Palladian architecture”. Then on to Antonio Canova’s Gipsoteca, a museum dedicated to the famous sculptor from the 1700’s. After my recent lecture on Michelangelo, it made the sculptures all that more interesting.

And then back to the beautiful village of Asolo and our cozy hotel. We now have made friends with Francesco, who greets us like returning royalty, and we’re settled into our deep bathtubs and cozy robes before dinner. There are many little osterias in the Centro Storico, but the food is fabulous here, we can tumble upstairs after a full bottle of the wonderful local Valpolicella, and we’re on vacation, not a race to see everything.

We shared stories with the Australian man sitting next to us, we ate leisurely, we drank a whole bottle of wine and are ensconced in our suite documenting the day. Cold, rainy, gray, but full to the brim with experiences. Make the most of every day – we only have so many of them.

Left our house at 1 PM, delayed in Jacksonville, but still with enough time in Atlanta to go to both the American Express Centurion Lounge (great food, outdoor terrace, very commodious) and the Delta Lounge (mediocre food, overcrowded and needs a facelift). The flight attendants were lovely, the flight was smooth, and 9 hours later, we’re in Venice.

Really easy airport – no lines, well marked, bags arrived quickly. Small problem with the rental car – couldn’t get the GPS to talk in English – but 4 lovely Italian Hertz representatives sorted it out with many hand gesticulations and curse words.

Great roads into our northern sojourn into the Veneto. We’re staying at a lovely hotel that was built in the 1600’s, the home of Robert Browning in the 1800’s, purchased in the 1900’s by Rupert Guinness and turned into a hotel by the storied Giuseppe Cipriani. We checked in and crashed for a few hours.

Nothing like a gray day to make you want to nap. We awoke in time for cocktails and dinner, but not much exploring today. We planned it this way – we’re always exhausted and on the wrong time, so why not just cozy up and relax? Robes, hot baths, leisurely cocktails in the “American Bar” (that was decidedly British), and a lovely meal in elegant surroundings.

Brad drank the local Prosecco, I had my Carpano with orange, we discussed what we’d do tomorrow, looked over the concierge’s recommendations, made plans to see Giulio and relaxed into la dolce far niente.

When the weather breaks the views will be fantastic. I was happy to look at all the wonderful details of the Villa- well worn perfectly laid tiles, archways with exquisite woodwork, crisp linens, tuxedoed waiters, a life worth living.

We kept it regional for dinner, skipped dessert (and coffee), and hoofed it back upstairs for more puffy robes and fluffy pillows and turn down service with chocolates. Day One is complete. See you tomorrow over cappuccino.

It’s an inside joke.

On a recent trip, my girlfriends saw luggage tagged with an expression that immediately got their attention – Aloha Fuckers. They took a picture, we laughed about it, we greeted one another with the expression, and then they both sent me travel ware with the expression. I needed a trip worthy of the scarf and bag tag:

I’d say this one is worthy. I recently saw a new Delta flight from Atlanta to Venice, non stop. It appeared like a vision and I couldn’t get it out of my head. I asked Brad last Saturday if he’d consider just booking a trip and going (after some coaching from my sister Lisa and my friend Janet), and he said “sure, why not”. He went golfing, I planned the trip. On Saturday. In 5 hours.

Nine days, 4 cities, museums, friends, dinners, rental cars, hotels and flights. It can be done.

Come along with us……Aloha Fuckers!

Up early and out. We are flying from Glasgow to Gatwick, then Gatwick home. Always worry about delays, lost luggage, etc, but things have worked smoothly and Gatwick is a breeze. Actually quiet – when have you said that about an airport?

So, thoughts about Glasgow and London:

First of all, no need to worry about looking continental. Most people wear very comfortable shoes, puff coats, and reliably warm clothing. London was somewhat dressier, but no one looked like Kate Middleton and I never saw a man in a camel hair coat.

We stayed in a lovely part of London, Marleybone. Monocle magazine is down the street, the BBC production offices are here, and Yotam Ottolenghi lives in the ‘hood. Great shops, good restaurants and the feel of Beacon Hill. Puff coats, comfortable shoes. You needn’t agonize over packing or looking out of place.

London is one of the most diverse cities I have ever been in. Are there still British living in London? It’s really a melting pot of cultures and it all seems to work – I feel like people see color and sexual orientation with open acceptance. Every bathroom allowed for trans people, every restaurant and shop had a wide variety of nationalities working and patronizing, and gay culture has been openly part of British society forever. It all felt very wholesome and un judgmental. Walking along any street, you hear many languages spoken. I loved it, and it changes you – you stop seeing color and differences as well.

Glasgow has a great music scene. We are not music people, but there are probably 25 places with live music during the week and double that on weekends. Rock, pop, folk, jazz, traditional, you name it. It’s a city for students and there are five universities in the town. This translates to good music, interesting food, and vibrant shopping. It probably leads to a lively drug culture too, but it was not evident to us.

Glasgow is cheap. Our lovely hotel was $250 a night with a terrific staff, a wonderful restaurant and beautiful (though un photographed) spa. Wonderful dinners were never more than $90 US for two with drinks and you can easily get a reservation. There is a marketing slogan, People Make Glasgow, and it’s true. Everyone is engaging and kind and generous. When you tip them, they fawn over you. Shopping is much easier than London and equally interesting (except for Liberty and the Food Hall at Harrods which London wins).

November was cool, but it was great for walking. No crowds, museums were accessible and we had NO rain! Good time of year to travel, but being properly dressed was key.

The UK is familiar, yet different. The accents are wonderful, the expressions amusing, but it’s all understandable – you never feel self conscious that you’re breaking some rule (like ordering a cappuccino in Italy after 11). There were vegan and vegetarian options galore – they have really embraced this. They are very conscious of carbon emissions and even in Glasgow there were car charging stations everywhere. Water came in environment friendly boxes, all takeaway was paper boxes, and disposable cutlery was wooden. They are really trying to reduce plastics. Stores charge for bags, and you are always asked if you want one. Time to short plastic companies.

When we watch British programs we sometimes need closed captions to understand – I asked if they needed closed captions to understand American TV — no one said they did. Huh.

JetBlue was great, and EasyJet was equally terrific from Glasgow to Gatwick. We flew coach back and the food was really good. A wonderful chicken (or eggplant) wrap, cauliflower in a paprika spice with pomegranate and pickled onions and a vegan mango coconut pudding.

Because we were in a city, it wasn’t possible for all of us to stay in the same flat. We did something together every day, but I missed the “hanging around” time. We only had one afternoon when everyone wasn’t committed to something else, and it was just before packing to leave, so my head was elsewhere (and my IPad crashed – argh), so the time was squandered by me.

However, I’ve always said that the true mission of these trips is to get the kids and grandkids comfortable with international travel, and I’d say, mission accomplished. They really didn’t need us – they have this.

Another one for the books. It was a great way to spend Thanksgiving – one we’ll always remember.

Slept like the dead last night. Last true vacation night – tomorrow we leave at 5 AM, so you never sleep well, and the journey home is never a vacation day.

Brad has breakfast every morning. It’s a buffet, it’s expensive, and he eats one pastry, pineapple chunks, black coffee and porridge.

There are these gorgeous rounds of butter that, if I was hungry in the morning, I would have chunked onto a croissant, smothered in fresh raspberry jam, before mounding 3 plates of food, instead I get a cappuccino. Can’t bring myself to squander the money for the only thing my stomach can handle at that hour – yogurt.

However, at 10:40, I’m ravenous, and what did I eat? You got it:

Left overs from last night’s feast, cold from the box — smoked fish with peppers, hake and squid with chickpeas, roasted carrots and cabbage with apples. All of it.

Fortified by our respective meals, we headed out once again to see the last few things on our list. First off, the Glasgow City Council building. An 1880’s treasure of craftsmanship and decor.

Pictures don’t do it justice. Just an amazing building full of mosaics (1.5 million tiles), marble, onyx and carved sandstone. Glasgow was a hugely important city in the late 1800’s and this building was its trophy. When it opened, 400,000 came to tour it.

Next is the Cathedral dating back to 1100. Just a massive building — originally catholic and in the 1500’s changed to Scottish Presbyterian. How they built these things between 1100 and 1200 boggles the mind. And building for 100 years – think of starting a building in 1923 and finishing in 2023. With oxen and horses and pulleys. The height of it, and the wood timbers at the top….

Look at how thick those columns are next to Brad, and the height of them!

But the real reason we came over was to film a shot from the PBS series, Annika, at the Necropolis – a 37 acre graveyard with the most amazing monuments. I love me a graveyard.

I was gonna use the spa again and take pictures, but inertia got me. We are at the 12th day of the vacation. Like my 11:00 AM need for food every single day, the 12th day of the vacation is it. I’m done, I start packing, I hibernate in the room.

The spa is in the basement of the building and it is beautifully dimly lit. It has walls that are totally made of moss, real moss. There is a large very warm pool with swirling water that is lit with a soft blue light and an alcove you can swim to that is dark with only pins of lights that look like stars. There is a huge round jacuzzi pool lit with a soft amber, and 3 saunas with geometrical seating plus a salt room. It’s lovely. I’m sorry.

We’re so ready for home – no more fish and chips, no more bangers and mash. We found an Americanish bar and had fried chicken and rock ‘n roll music (I did have curry sauce on my chicken). It was great, it was easy, and it was around the corner. The moon is full, and Glasgow looks mysterious and wonderful.

We’re packed, the alarm is set for 4:25 AM, and we are leaving the UK having enjoyed it thoroughly, but ready to get home. Christmas here is lovely and festive and fun, but there is nothing like a New England Christmas – I’m convinced of it. It is the ultimate. There’s no place like home.

You know, by now, that I will file an addendum while on the plane. Talk to you stateside.