Author: leanagallagher

Left our house at 1 PM, delayed in Jacksonville, but still with enough time in Atlanta to go to both the American Express Centurion Lounge (great food, outdoor terrace, very commodious) and the Delta Lounge (mediocre food, overcrowded and needs a facelift). The flight attendants were lovely, the flight was smooth, and 9 hours later, we’re in Venice.

Really easy airport – no lines, well marked, bags arrived quickly. Small problem with the rental car – couldn’t get the GPS to talk in English – but 4 lovely Italian Hertz representatives sorted it out with many hand gesticulations and curse words.

Great roads into our northern sojourn into the Veneto. We’re staying at a lovely hotel that was built in the 1600’s, the home of Robert Browning in the 1800’s, purchased in the 1900’s by Rupert Guinness and turned into a hotel by the storied Giuseppe Cipriani. We checked in and crashed for a few hours.

Nothing like a gray day to make you want to nap. We awoke in time for cocktails and dinner, but not much exploring today. We planned it this way – we’re always exhausted and on the wrong time, so why not just cozy up and relax? Robes, hot baths, leisurely cocktails in the “American Bar” (that was decidedly British), and a lovely meal in elegant surroundings.

Brad drank the local Prosecco, I had my Carpano with orange, we discussed what we’d do tomorrow, looked over the concierge’s recommendations, made plans to see Giulio and relaxed into la dolce far niente.

When the weather breaks the views will be fantastic. I was happy to look at all the wonderful details of the Villa- well worn perfectly laid tiles, archways with exquisite woodwork, crisp linens, tuxedoed waiters, a life worth living.

We kept it regional for dinner, skipped dessert (and coffee), and hoofed it back upstairs for more puffy robes and fluffy pillows and turn down service with chocolates. Day One is complete. See you tomorrow over cappuccino.

It’s an inside joke.

On a recent trip, my girlfriends saw luggage tagged with an expression that immediately got their attention – Aloha Fuckers. They took a picture, we laughed about it, we greeted one another with the expression, and then they both sent me travel ware with the expression. I needed a trip worthy of the scarf and bag tag:

I’d say this one is worthy. I recently saw a new Delta flight from Atlanta to Venice, non stop. It appeared like a vision and I couldn’t get it out of my head. I asked Brad last Saturday if he’d consider just booking a trip and going (after some coaching from my sister Lisa and my friend Janet), and he said “sure, why not”. He went golfing, I planned the trip. On Saturday. In 5 hours.

Nine days, 4 cities, museums, friends, dinners, rental cars, hotels and flights. It can be done.

Come along with us……Aloha Fuckers!

Up early and out. We are flying from Glasgow to Gatwick, then Gatwick home. Always worry about delays, lost luggage, etc, but things have worked smoothly and Gatwick is a breeze. Actually quiet – when have you said that about an airport?

So, thoughts about Glasgow and London:

First of all, no need to worry about looking continental. Most people wear very comfortable shoes, puff coats, and reliably warm clothing. London was somewhat dressier, but no one looked like Kate Middleton and I never saw a man in a camel hair coat.

We stayed in a lovely part of London, Marleybone. Monocle magazine is down the street, the BBC production offices are here, and Yotam Ottolenghi lives in the ‘hood. Great shops, good restaurants and the feel of Beacon Hill. Puff coats, comfortable shoes. You needn’t agonize over packing or looking out of place.

London is one of the most diverse cities I have ever been in. Are there still British living in London? It’s really a melting pot of cultures and it all seems to work – I feel like people see color and sexual orientation with open acceptance. Every bathroom allowed for trans people, every restaurant and shop had a wide variety of nationalities working and patronizing, and gay culture has been openly part of British society forever. It all felt very wholesome and un judgmental. Walking along any street, you hear many languages spoken. I loved it, and it changes you – you stop seeing color and differences as well.

Glasgow has a great music scene. We are not music people, but there are probably 25 places with live music during the week and double that on weekends. Rock, pop, folk, jazz, traditional, you name it. It’s a city for students and there are five universities in the town. This translates to good music, interesting food, and vibrant shopping. It probably leads to a lively drug culture too, but it was not evident to us.

Glasgow is cheap. Our lovely hotel was $250 a night with a terrific staff, a wonderful restaurant and beautiful (though un photographed) spa. Wonderful dinners were never more than $90 US for two with drinks and you can easily get a reservation. There is a marketing slogan, People Make Glasgow, and it’s true. Everyone is engaging and kind and generous. When you tip them, they fawn over you. Shopping is much easier than London and equally interesting (except for Liberty and the Food Hall at Harrods which London wins).

November was cool, but it was great for walking. No crowds, museums were accessible and we had NO rain! Good time of year to travel, but being properly dressed was key.

The UK is familiar, yet different. The accents are wonderful, the expressions amusing, but it’s all understandable – you never feel self conscious that you’re breaking some rule (like ordering a cappuccino in Italy after 11). There were vegan and vegetarian options galore – they have really embraced this. They are very conscious of carbon emissions and even in Glasgow there were car charging stations everywhere. Water came in environment friendly boxes, all takeaway was paper boxes, and disposable cutlery was wooden. They are really trying to reduce plastics. Stores charge for bags, and you are always asked if you want one. Time to short plastic companies.

When we watch British programs we sometimes need closed captions to understand – I asked if they needed closed captions to understand American TV — no one said they did. Huh.

JetBlue was great, and EasyJet was equally terrific from Glasgow to Gatwick. We flew coach back and the food was really good. A wonderful chicken (or eggplant) wrap, cauliflower in a paprika spice with pomegranate and pickled onions and a vegan mango coconut pudding.

Because we were in a city, it wasn’t possible for all of us to stay in the same flat. We did something together every day, but I missed the “hanging around” time. We only had one afternoon when everyone wasn’t committed to something else, and it was just before packing to leave, so my head was elsewhere (and my IPad crashed – argh), so the time was squandered by me.

However, I’ve always said that the true mission of these trips is to get the kids and grandkids comfortable with international travel, and I’d say, mission accomplished. They really didn’t need us – they have this.

Another one for the books. It was a great way to spend Thanksgiving – one we’ll always remember.

Slept like the dead last night. Last true vacation night – tomorrow we leave at 5 AM, so you never sleep well, and the journey home is never a vacation day.

Brad has breakfast every morning. It’s a buffet, it’s expensive, and he eats one pastry, pineapple chunks, black coffee and porridge.

There are these gorgeous rounds of butter that, if I was hungry in the morning, I would have chunked onto a croissant, smothered in fresh raspberry jam, before mounding 3 plates of food, instead I get a cappuccino. Can’t bring myself to squander the money for the only thing my stomach can handle at that hour – yogurt.

However, at 10:40, I’m ravenous, and what did I eat? You got it:

Left overs from last night’s feast, cold from the box — smoked fish with peppers, hake and squid with chickpeas, roasted carrots and cabbage with apples. All of it.

Fortified by our respective meals, we headed out once again to see the last few things on our list. First off, the Glasgow City Council building. An 1880’s treasure of craftsmanship and decor.

Pictures don’t do it justice. Just an amazing building full of mosaics (1.5 million tiles), marble, onyx and carved sandstone. Glasgow was a hugely important city in the late 1800’s and this building was its trophy. When it opened, 400,000 came to tour it.

Next is the Cathedral dating back to 1100. Just a massive building — originally catholic and in the 1500’s changed to Scottish Presbyterian. How they built these things between 1100 and 1200 boggles the mind. And building for 100 years – think of starting a building in 1923 and finishing in 2023. With oxen and horses and pulleys. The height of it, and the wood timbers at the top….

Look at how thick those columns are next to Brad, and the height of them!

But the real reason we came over was to film a shot from the PBS series, Annika, at the Necropolis – a 37 acre graveyard with the most amazing monuments. I love me a graveyard.

I was gonna use the spa again and take pictures, but inertia got me. We are at the 12th day of the vacation. Like my 11:00 AM need for food every single day, the 12th day of the vacation is it. I’m done, I start packing, I hibernate in the room.

The spa is in the basement of the building and it is beautifully dimly lit. It has walls that are totally made of moss, real moss. There is a large very warm pool with swirling water that is lit with a soft blue light and an alcove you can swim to that is dark with only pins of lights that look like stars. There is a huge round jacuzzi pool lit with a soft amber, and 3 saunas with geometrical seating plus a salt room. It’s lovely. I’m sorry.

We’re so ready for home – no more fish and chips, no more bangers and mash. We found an Americanish bar and had fried chicken and rock ‘n roll music (I did have curry sauce on my chicken). It was great, it was easy, and it was around the corner. The moon is full, and Glasgow looks mysterious and wonderful.

We’re packed, the alarm is set for 4:25 AM, and we are leaving the UK having enjoyed it thoroughly, but ready to get home. Christmas here is lovely and festive and fun, but there is nothing like a New England Christmas – I’m convinced of it. It is the ultimate. There’s no place like home.

You know, by now, that I will file an addendum while on the plane. Talk to you stateside.

We slept late today, like 8:30 late. It’s cool and rainy today, so we took advantage of it. Coffee in the room, slow wake up, and Brad has a little head cold. Could it be because he was outdoors on a 30 degree day with a baseball cap instead of a real hat and scarf? Took him to Pringle, took him to Fraser, extolled the virtues of cashmere in Scotland – he wasn’t having it.

On another note, Kirsten’s bag made it home with her in one piece.

Jeff and the girls ended with a bang — no surprise there. They started the day playing virtual cricket, headed to Carnaby Street, Chinatown, then off to meet California friends for a pre theatre dinner at a Pub and to see the show, Matilda, in the West End. They found a make your own bubble tea shop, then took pictures with buses that have the same number as your birthdate. They would have fun no matter where they are. I couldn’t hope for better. And they are off – hope they sleep on the plane!

We’re having an easy day today – a taxi to the East End to see Barra’s Market and the famed Barrowland Ballroom, a favorite of David Bowie’s.

The East End might be better for college students than us geriatrics, so we hopped in another cab to the Hunterian Museum at the University of Glasgow in the West End. Much more our speed. The buildings we visited are the “new’ buildings, that date from 1870. The university is five centuries old.

The Gothic Revival architecture is everything you hope it to be. You feel smarter just walking around. The museums are amazing – with ancient Roman ruins from sites in Scotland, to dinosaurs, to the history of medical equipment.

And then there’s what we really came for, Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Margaret MacDonald Mackintosh’s home. Designed by them, every window, chair and stick of furniture as well as the textiles. The home is perfect and thankfully preserved. This was designed in 1891 – I’d live in it today.

And the most beautiful piece, in my estimation

One table with all that intricate work. We need to find out who the craftsmen were. It’s one thing to design, another to execute. The curator thought that because there were so many ship wrights in Glasgow, that maybe the furniture was made as a side hustle.

That’s enough sightseeing for today – we headed back home for tea and massages. The hotel has a magnificent spa (I remembered it from our last stay) and we both had terrific therapists. Pictures of the spa tomorrow.

Off to dinner at the Ox and Finch. BEST MEAL IN THE UK. Glasgow has a great food scene, not that London doesn’t, but London gets all hypey- Glasgow is more artistic with less overhead. A chef who cares can really make it what he or she wants. You all know that I’m Ottolenghi crazy, but this is better. I don’t say that lightly.

For those who care read on (Wendy, this means you). Rookie mistake, we ordered homemade bread and butter – and ate it all. Then we ordered almost everything on the menu – truly. Fried artichokes with home made yogurt doused with an Aleppo chili butter, smoked fish with pickled Spanish peppers and paprika, hake with squid and chickpeas with aioli and fresh celery (a game changer- the bright crunch), a lamb ragout on the softest polenta with crunchy pickled onions, braised whole carrots in this walnut gremolata in a pool of beurre blanc, cabbage with Roquefort and pears and really good steak and chips (Brad’s pick). Can’t tell you how special each dish was, and no we didn’t finish half of it, but I was like a kid in a candy store.

Needless to say, I’m back under crisply ironed sheets with a very happy belly. I will sleep with the angels tonight.

7600 steps. Slackers.

It’s as we remembered it. A bit forlorn with moments of unspeakable beauty. A mixture of grandeur and decay and so much potential. You all know Brad – he loves a challenge – in every run down-opulent building he envisions the future. His mind is going a thousand miles an hour, he asks everyone questions, he is googling businesses and real estate prices and imagining the city as it should be.

The architecture is just beautiful. It’s almost crying to tell you it’s history. Every building has a story, and the most beautiful ones have the patina of a bygone era. They were built in the 1800’s when Glasgow was the largest trading port in the world. After I finish with Christopher Wren and Isambard Kingdom Brunel (I do love that name) I am going to study the history of Glasgow – we’ve always felt attached to this city. Brad has a reason – his 3rd great grandfather lived and worked in Paisley, just down the road, but me? Can’t explain it.

We walked up Garnet Hill to the Glasgow School of Art (a Charles Rennie Mackintosh building that has burned down twice!) and saw an exhibit by Joan Eardly, one of their former students. The building is still under repairs, but there is a feeling within that building that’s hard to describe. There is some true energy there – it’s one of the world’s best art schools and draws folks from around the world, but it’s different – it’s almost spiritual.

We walked down the hill and around to the Tenament House,the home of Miss Agnes Toward from 1912 – 1965. It was very much like a Historic New England property. We got to see how an average Glaswegian lived during the two world wars — it was a time capsule. She saved things and lived a very compact life. Upon her death, her apartment was to be cleared until a young woman saw that it was a peak into 1920’s Glasgow and saved it. Now this quiet maiden lady is known to everyone who visits. I love these stories.

After that we headed for Dim Sum (Brad had chicken noodle soup).

Over to the River Clyde to see the fabulous Zaha Hadid Riverside Museum. We spent close to two hours with boats, trains, subway cars, bicycles and motorbikes. Brad was in heaven. If there is a car museum, we will find it.

Back to the City Centre ON A BUS at Brad’s request (he’s warming to public transport) and into Scotland’s version of Harrod’s, House of Fraser.

Back to the hotel for tea and a rest, followed by an early dinner at the hotel.

The name of the restaurant is Iasg (pronounced ee-usk), and the seafood is pristine. Fried Cumbrian oysters, smoked haddock and clam chowder and grilled plaice. All perfectly executed.

A short walk to the Royal Concert Hall to see the Royal Scottish National Orchestra (lotta royals in that description) and back home for the night. The orchestra was good, the chorus was great, and the composer/conductor was fair. We didn’t fall asleep, so that’s saying something.

14,000 steps today in a very chilly, but clear and sunny Glasgow.

Kirsten had her final night in the UK and the V’s put in another full one.

The V’s went out early on a very windy chilly day.

Kirsten got her 3rd new suitcase and repacked it and met Paul after class. They headed to Selfridge (please watch that series) and then the Mayfair mercato for an Italian lunch. A great send off before heading to Heathrow to sleep at the airport before an early morning flight.

The V’s did what the V’s do and traversed the city. They headed to Greenwich so Jeff could replicate the BBC announcers saying “Greenwich Mean Time”. They ended the day with Dim Sum and Cadbury ice cream in their jammies.

Kirsten checked into her hotel and had dinner at the airport overlooking the planes over London. Sad to go, but a good week.

One down. The V’s have another day, and we have 3 more in Scotland. It all goes by so fast.

Leaving London was hard. We just started to feel at home. We found the little breakfast places and markets, we finally knew east from west, we could use the Tube, and we’d hit all the high notes. Now it’s time to get comfortable, and poof – it’s over.

Well, almost over. Kirsten’s new suitcase had a defective zipper. Her other also new suitcase had the wheel ripped off, so we bought this one on Wednesday – she got it all packed….. and then had to unpack it, return it, and get a new one. Talk about a fire drill!

We left her feeling comfortable that she could navigate London well and head off to Euston Station to get the train to Glasgow. The view from the train was magical.

‘Why Glasgow?” everyone asks; because we like it. Edinburgh is gorgeous, the Highlands are stunningly beautiful and soul filling, Glasgow is gritty, and multicultural, and old and a bit worn down at the heel, and ever so charming. It’s just like Noto in Sicily – not the most historic, not the most beautiful, but so full of personality and individuality and charm that we just love it. And the people! So warm, so kind, so generous. It’s manageable, there are no American tourists, and we live like Scotsmen for a few days.

We stayed in this hotel a few years ago, The Blythswood Square, and loved it. Years ago, it was our first stop and we landed early and the early check in room wasn’t ready. We fell soundly asleep in the lobby in the alcove (3rd picture above) – they had to wake us to get us into our room.

I mentioned multicultural, right? Huge Asian population and restaurants here. Food scene is terrific, and quality of the food is outstanding. Brad’s first night in Scotland — no one needs to be tortured — so we settled on a lovely pseudo American restaurant called Dakota. Cool, hip bar, lovely waitstaff, and truly delicious and innovative food. Celeriac starter followed by halibut in a ham hock broth with chanterelles, a waffle with truffles and pumpkin roasted with curry and dolloped with homemade herbed yogurt. Brad had steak, Cesar salad and fries. Everyone went home a winner.

I took a long bath, watched some cheeky British political commentary show, and am snuggled under a freshly pressed duvet next to a contented snoring husband.

9446 steps today and delighted. Leaving you with this:

Thanksgiving is always such a special time, but this year was wonderfully special. We celebrated at a pub in Rotherhithe very close to the site from which the original British pilgrims left. (they actually left, found that the boat needed repairs, came back and left again from Plymouth, England). What is the name of the pub, you ask? The MAYFLOWER

We started the day with ridiculous donuts because it was Thanksgiving.

We took a tour with Robert from London Walks about Isambard Kingdom Brunel – God, I love saying it – what a name. He designed that beautiful Tower Bridge we saw last night, plus many others, but his most important achievements were his tunnels and steamships.

The first tunnel under water was his, and it was a pedestrian tunnel, originally, then became the first subway tunnel under water. This revolutionized the city. He also invented and built the largest steamship of its time and laid the telephone cable connecting the new world with the old world. Just a genius.

We started on boat, walked a bit, took the underground and the overground and ended up in Rotherhithe and in the church that dated back to our pilgrims.

The pub was just behind the church and has been there (in some iteration) since 1596.

As usual, we included a few friends in the festivities – Paul’s roommate, TJ and Nicholas Furnald joined the fun. The pub had a great vibe and great food.

We ate and drank and didn’t even feel bad for the staff because they don’t celebrate Thanksgiving!

We’re pros at the Tube, so we made it home without incident and hung around, and took a walk, and did a puzzle and found American Football on the Telly. Exactly what the day should be like.

We started with a British scholar and ended watching football – best of both worlds. Oh, and here’s the view from the shores of Rotherhithe.

Only 12,000 steps today, but it felt like we covered a lot of ground.

Happy Thanksgiving!

The accomplishment of the day was a climb to the top of St. Paul’s Cathedral. We weren’t expecting to do this, but it just happened. The day started out leisurely enough – a bit of shopping, takeout from Ottolenghi, cappuccino and a croissant – and then a short ride on the Underground.

Paul was at school, the V’s headed up to Sky Garden to see the panorama of London, and we headed to St. Paul’s Cathedral and spent at least 2 hours bathed in the majesty that is Christopher Wren. Windsor Castle was opulent, but St. Paul’s is otherworldly.

There is no way to capture it with photos. Huge, intricate, so well designed, and so much history! We listened to the architectural tour, the art tour, and the history tour. The story is amazing, and I will surely begin reading more about Wren when I return. He was a true master, and designed no less than 53 churches in London along with other notable buildings.

As I was gazing up to the top of the dome, I saw movement…people could go up there and see the mosaics directly? So I found the stairwell, and up we went — to the dome and then further to the outdoor parapet. 375 steps up (and down). The views were amazing, and the thought that I could (and did) do it, was even better.

Off to the Mithraeum, the site of a Roman underground temple in the middle of what is now The City of London, which was known as Londinium 2500 years ago. The drawing in the middle shows you a depiction of what ancient Londinium looked like. Fascinating stuff.

Then off to see some of our own history, the Fidelity International Investor Center. Had a great chat with a couple of representatives.

Then on to the Tower of London. As we were steeped in London’s history all morning, we decided to go full bore and see the fortress of the Kings. Much to our dismay, there were 210 steps up into the tower.

Up we went to see the home of the Norman, Plantagenet and Tudor Kings, so well displayed and with such knowledgeable guides. We learned more about 14th century battles than we knew existed.

And as night fell, we saw the Tower Bridge all lit up!

The V’s spent the morning traipsing over the bridge, under the bridge and around the bridge! They hit the markets nearby, went to an F1 arcade and met us for a light show at the tower along with a tour of the Royal Jewels.

We were all pooped! We were hoping to settle in to a pub and inhale some much deserved calories, but we couldn’t find anything suitable, so we dragged our tired behinds home and found sustenance in the ‘hood. Paul crashed, the V’s ordered in Indian, and we had fish and chips.

As we strolled home under the Christmas lights and the ginkgo trees we all felt that London has become familiar and homey. Our neighborhood feels like Boston in so many ways.

I leave you with this beautiful ginko tree.

22,000 steps today and 585 stairs climbed.