Author: leanagallagher

Can’t tell you what a good night’s sleep has meant. Yesterday was a full day and we were both exhausted. Last night’s dinner conversation invigorated us, and we woke up with a great appreciation for the culture here.

We saw this little bird and he seemed to want to make eye contact with us. He wasn’t afraid and he just emitted this sense of calm and joy. I think our friend Ron sent him too us. We both felt it.

Breakfast at the hotel was simple and delicious. Home made bread, exceptional Danish butter with flaky salt, some cheese, an egg and a bit of yogurt with poached fruit and granola. Every component was special. I thought of Kirsten and our breakfasts at Ottolenghi. We spoke with the manager, Lena, and just discussed so many wonderful things about Copenhagen. This place has a real soul.

The Botanical Gardens was our first stop. Lovely, but not noteworthy. We sat in the sun, had a second coffee, saw the butterfly conservatory and whiled away the morning.

We headed over to Frederickborg Palace, but needed to make a reservation so went to the next palace, Amelienborg and the changing of the guard.

The Amelienborg Palace complex is where the current King and Queen live. It is opulent and elegant, but much more reasonable in scope. You could imagine a family (a royal family) actually living in it. That said, the “museum rooms” from past monarch’s were impressive and well documented.

After traversing the city, we were getting a bit hungry and headed over to Aaman 1921 on Wendy’s recommendation for Smorebrod and Snapps. It was fantastic!

Herring, plaice, shrimp and chicken all sauced and seasoned with smooth and crunchy things. So many flavored Snapps!

Best of all, we sat next to couple from Miami by way of Vienna and Venezuela. They have both lived in Florida for over 20 years and we had a very interesting conversation on politics and history and what is discussed and what is silent. They were both more conservative, but are aghast at what is taking place. Both their children have applied for Viennese citizenship as they all clearly remember why they fled Venezuela, and want to be able to flee America if they need to. You learn so much when you engage with people.

The weather has been stellar and Brad loves being on the water, so we took a cruise around the city.

We got a great perspective being on the water and got to see the Royal Yacht. So much naval history and commerce that emanated over the water. Like the Germans, the Danes don’t side step the mistakes of their past and pointed out their colonial missteps and where the trading took place.

By this time it was 4:30, rush hour, and it was amazing to see so many cyclists going home from work. It was almost comical to my American eyes, but there are clear, large bike lanes and other pedestrian lanes, and the cars and bikes seem to coexist well.

Another nap was needed before heading out to dinner. This little apartment is so nice – we can spread out, make a cup of tea and really spend time here without feeling claustrophobic.

We took a leisurely stroll to dinner and saw so many folks gathered along the water just having a drink or dinner together – not a restaurant, folks just bring a beer, sit down and enjoy the sunset together after work.

Dinner was at a little French place with exceptional service. Food was fantastic and we struck up a conversation with the couple next to us. Everyone is so convivial here. He is a comedy writer (Netflix series, Baby Fever, Nikolaj Feifer) and she was the most beautiful landscape architect I have ever seen.

Best bit of Danish humor: Nick said that the rest of the world has always emulated and copied the United States for years, it’s now nice to the see the United States copying something from other countries: authoritarian regimes. We busted out laughing,

Gougere with truffles, white asparagus with shrimp and hollandaise, boudin blanc and entrecôte of beef with bearnaise. We will sleep tonight!

The walk home was delightful. Met a group of Senegalese young men celebrating something, a couple of boaters tying up for the night, and the quiet cobblestone streets of Copenhagen.

It is truly a comfortable place.

We settled in comfortably into our little pods on the plane. The privacy and ability to lie down was terrific, but we still didn’t get more than a few hours sleep. The plane left at 6:00 PM, so you’re not really ready for bed for a while.

We arrived in Copenhagen more than a little tired. Luckily the airport is lovely, and we navigated to the Metro easily. Five stops and we were blocks from our hotel. our room wasn’t ready (at 8:00 in the morning) so we caffeinated up and hit the road. We are staying in the absolutely picture perfect area called Christianhaven (pronounced Kristinaben) right on a lovely canal.

So what does my dear husband propose as our first order of sleep deprived business? Climbing to the top of the Church of our Savior — all 440 tiny, 17th century wooden steps! Okay, he’s the octogenarian…. Up we went, past carillons, bells, clockworks, under massive wooden beams, stepping aside on these teensy winding steps as others came down. Just before the last straight up ladder stairs, I said “Uncle”. No one needs to kill themselves on the first morning. It was a valiant effort.

We headed (stumbled really) across town and over one of the many bridges to the Parliment House or Christianborg Palace. We were both tired and thirsty and a tad cranky, but we carried on. First we explored the ruins under the palace dating back to 1100.

Then we went into the current palace, which is used for Royal events.

We really should have curled up on a park bench at this point, but we headed over to the Royal Museum of Denmark for a bit of history and context. We also had a bottle of water each, which somewhat revived us.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped for lunch at a spot my sister, LaLa, told me about, The 1733. We sat in the sun, Brad had his first Danish beer, I ate my first white asparagus of the trip and we watched the Danes on their lunch hour stroll by.

Kanalheust, our hotel, is a funky establishment that my friend, Wendy, told me about. It is a converted 1735 navy barracks that has apartments and knitting hours, and early morning singing and swimming in the canal. They serve communal dinners and have a young hip staff of mostly women. It’s fabulous!

The apartment is large and full of windows and Miele appliances and a washer dryer. The bed is lovely and shower is powerful. We both tumbled into bed and slept for a few hours.

We had dinner in the communal dining room and met 4 Danes, 2 bicyclers from Portland Oregon, a German and a Brit who now lives here. The dinner is served family style and the point is to get to know other people. We had a great group. Dinner was monkfish in a Moroccan sauce. Polenta with pickled fennel, grilled zucchini, green salad and homemade rustic bread with a broad bean dip. Excellent and inexpensive!

We talked about our lives, about politics, about culture and about what a fabulous place this restaurant is. The hotel and restaurant are owned by a wealthy Danish family that is promoting people getting to know one another. They make the meals inexpensive to get the locals and tourist to both come and mingle. It was charming, informative and delicious. We will be eating more meals here!

Energized by our nap and the pithy conversation, we took a sunset stroll after dinner. The city has canals everywhere and they are full of boats. Brad was in heaven. I’ll leave you with some lovely pictures as I trot off to bed. 15,000 steps and 350 stairs, not a bad day.

I woke up early thinking of a million things, but first and foremost was gratitude. My husband and I are healthy and able. My sisters are all doing well. The kids are thriving and the grandchildren get better every year. We live in Oz, have the best circle of friends, and I am oh so grateful.

And we’re going to Copenhagen!

This trip is a casual one. The Danish frown upon extravagance. We’ve decided to dress accordingly and packed only carry on suitcases. 2 pants, 3 sweaters, turtlenecks a pair of shoes and what we’re wearing.

When I bought the tickets, I did it quickly because there was a $500 round trip special. First class was $7000. We decided that we could sit on a nail for the $13,000 swing for the two of us.

But that was months ago. The idea of sitting in the back of the plane for 7 hours (on an overnight flight) started to get me. SAS has a unique upgrade policy- you can bid on a first class seat. I bit. The bidding started at $600 per person and there were numerous seats available. I threw my hat into the ring, and we won! So, Hastens lie flat beds with Dux linens and a three course meal served by a chef from a trolley, here we come!

We got to Logan early and checked into the new Delta lounge. Fantastic! Even the bathrooms are terrific.

I am now headed to the bar for a pre flight Negroni and some aperitivi. And so we begin!

First of all, how to pronounce it. I thought I was being very continental pronouncing it Copenhaaagan. Turns out I was just being foolish, once again. My dear friend, Ed Kosner, corrected me, and I scoffed. I should know better – Ed is a storied newspaper editor and doesn’t speak unless he he’s fact checked the story – ever.

It is pronounced the way we grew up pronouncing it – Copenhagen (long A).

In February Brad said he’d like to go to Copenhagen. We had never discussed it before, but I immediately booked tickets – like that afternoon. Life is short. We are both healthy and mobile. If not now, when?

We haven’t given the trip all that much thought. We have a lovely Danish friend, Lisa Poling, who schooled me the delights of Denmark, I called my favorite travel epicurean, Wendy Frolich, who sent me a hotel and some restaurants, and off we go. We bought two guide books which have languished by the bedside, I’ve subscribed to a few Instagram sites, but honestly, we’re just going. No big agenda, no detailed planning, just a vacation. We’re trying something new.

We haven’t begun to pack, not even laid out clothes. It seems like a casual place with comfortable shoes, so I’m going with it. No Noma or Geranium reservations, no driver guide, no side trips into Sweden, no golf, just 6 nights in Copenhagen. I have started to look up spas…..

Today we will decide what to bring and make a list of potential restaurants. End. Talk to you from Logan tomorrow.

No sleep last night as I worried about not getting up early enough – would there be a taxi, should I schedule an Uber…. At 4:30 I got out of bed and got dressed. Kirsten was the same. We had plenty of time, so we did what we do best – the Tube.

Heathrow Express is a gift. 15 minutes into the terminal proper.

I realized far too late that the only other time I had departed from Heathrow, was on Virgin Upper Class, where you are whisked into the Clubhouse, with personal security, and escorted on the plane without ever seeing another passenger. I strongly recommend this. Strongly.

Heathrow is a madhouse. Gatwick I civilized. If you’re not going Virgin Upper, fly thru Gatwick.

The lines for a simple coffee were extreme. The Priority Pass Lounges all full. The walk to the gate was 20 minutes. And, excruciatingly, I forgot to even check for the Centurion Lounge! That would have been bliss. Alas, we made it home.

So, how was London? London is amazing. A world class city filled with old and new, crazy and calm, lots of different people and experiences. Marleybone to Camden are two different worlds. Canary Wharf to Chelsea are two different countries, so many museums, so many gardens and parks, so much architecture, and so many different people. London accepts all and amalgamates all. It is a city, so it’s the best of everything, I realize, but wow. You can understand why this little island ruled the world.

I don’t know much about their current situation politically, but my meager knowledge suggests there is much to be desired. However, a month in London, blindly uninformed, would be heaven.

We stayed in adequate quarters in the best area. We tumbled out to beauty and inspiration every morning. The park across the street is calming and awe inspiring (no one does landscape like the British), the church we saw as we turned the corner was centering, the Marleybone High Street was luxurious and familiar (so Beacon Hill), and all the food was presented and delivered as beautifully as anywhere in Italy.

I’ve always thought you should travel to different places, but what is wrong to going to places that you love? I’m so very comfortable there. It makes me happy to see all shades and types of people speaking in different languages and interacting. There is very little British pomposity left – only good manners and a lilting accent that makes everything more posh.

I only experienced the affluent areas, but truth be told, I only experience the affluent areas here. I am privileged and lucky. Full stop.

I plan to go back. I want to see the lesser museums, John Sloan, Dennis Seaver, Aspley House….. I want to travel a bit further afield into Islington and Portobello Road and more of Camden. I want to eat more ethnic food, I want to buy the beautiful fish from the fishmonger and cook it in my lovely apartment in Marleybone. I want to talk to each and every vendor at the Farmer’s Market and buy cheese and veg and make a feast. I want to tumble onto the side streets and have a drink at the bar at Durrants and make friends with bar tender. I want to read a book that I bought at Daunt’s in Regent’s Park. I want to pretend I live there in rarified space.

I still want to go to Sicily in May and buy food at the gorgeous market in Siracusa and watch the Greek plays in the archeological Amphitheatre. Having my morning cappuccino at Cafe Sicilia in Noto, is a dream. I want to go back to L’Alberetta in Franciacorta and be pummeled and pampered. Hiking in the Val Gardena and coming home to the Benessere, before heading out for a spritz and patatine sounds marvy. I’d like to see Morroco. I want to go to Istanbul. Trieste looms large. The Côte d’Azur would be magical. A week in Copenhagen sounds divine. And then there is Venice and Verona. But I’d like to fly through London and stop there first.

So, fly thru Gatwick if you’re on the cheap, and take Virgin Upper through Heathrow if your budget allows. Stay in the nicest area – nothing like looking forward to walking home.

See you next time.

Okay, so we didn’t see all of them, but we made a good dent. This girl is looking forward to a six hour plane ride tomorrow! We walked about 32 miles on our 4 day jaunt, and enjoyed every minute of it.

We began at Ottolenghi again. We stayed tried and true this morning with leek and feta danish for me and yogurt with passion fruit, poached berries and granola for Kirsten. It is such a joyous way to begin the day.

It was the Marleybone Farmers Market today. I think I took 26 pictures of the most gorgeous food stalls – every bit as luscious as Italy, and I don’t say that lightly.

This cinches it. I could live here. Food, history, culture, a diverse population, and that lovely accent.

We were excited to see Paul and Abi’s place, so we headed to Canary Wharf. Like a different city altogether! New, hip, green and FULL of shops and restaurants. Underground shopping malls and lovely parks and canals above.

Their apartment is adorable, a studio with a loft in an older revitalized building that now has a pool and sauna in the complex. It sits right on the Thames at the sight of the launch of Isambard Kingdom Brunnel’s Great Eastern Ship (I can’t help it, he’s my favorite).

We went for Sunday Roast at Blacklock – divine!

We toured the neighborhood and headed for a boat ride.

We stopped at Battersea, walked across the bridge into Chelsea, up into Knightsbridge, Belgravia and ended in Kensington for a Tube ride home. We poked into shops, found an old apartment we’d stayed in years ago and enjoyed the quiet residential streets.

We decided to head home early and we split off with Paul at the Tube station. We took one last trot down the Marleybone High Street.

We’re retiring early as we have a morning flight tomorrow. We packed a lot into this trip, and it was a perfect 4 days. The carry on bag served us well – we were well dressed enough for any occasion, comfortable enough to walk 8 miles a day, and warm enough to be outside. We toured and visited and explored and enjoyed.

Why don’t we do this more often? Kim, you’re right – just go! Fancy dinners and theatre shows are great, but just tooling around is fun too.

Oh, and can someone please tell me why there are so many tropical plants in London?

Dogs are ubiquitous, cats are rare as hens teeth. Dogs walk in the middle of the city without leashes and follow their masters. It’s amazing.

Another day, another 22,000 steps. I’m beginning to feel my age.

This is what we start the day seeing. I love this church and its beautiful courtyard. It represents this little area of Marleybone to me.

We started the day at the hip cafe all the Toney “ Marleybites” are always eating at – day and night, the place is jammed with the best pocketbooks and hip outfits. It’s called Granger. It was fine, but it was not Ottolenghi. I’ve learned my lesson.

We met Paul at Kensington Palace for a lovely tour of three different Royal periods: Tudor, Georgian, and young Queen Victoria.

Very different styles, and very different histories. One thing for sure – adultery and scandal have always been with us.

We travelled to St. Pancras station to visit the Harry Potter store for Michael. It was a madhouse, but a beautiful one.

Tea and a snack and we went off to do a little shopping in town.

No Goutal candles, no where, no how. Liberty, Selfridge, Harrods, Harvey Nichs. None.

We trotted back to the flat through the sea of humanity that is Oxford Street on Saturday, and rested our wearily bones before heading out to Trafalgar for dinner. We ate at Portrait, at the National Portrait Gallery, and took in views of the city.

Richard Corrigan was there himself, and the food and service were divine. We had our first drinks and a lovely meal of Dover Sole, Hake , and Beef Filet – each of us had our favorites.

The National Portrait Gallery was open late, and wasn’t crowded, so we spent some time getting to know some famous Britons. Of course, my favorite, Isambard Kingdom Brunel was at the top of the list!

The biographies attached to each painting were unexpected and terrific! Here are some wonderful heroes:

There we sooo many John Singer Sargents (thank you, Isabella Stewart Gardner for believing in him) and so many interesting depictions of many, many people. You could spend days there.

Paul headed home and Kirsten and I decided to walk to Buckingham Palace. We got out of the crowds, walked along St. James Park and approached the Palace devoid of people.

A cab brought us home. We are tired and a bit achey after 12 hours on our feet traversing this fine city. It is a lovely place and we’ve covered a lot of ground. Tomorrow we get to see Paul and Abi’s place and tuck into a Sunday Roast.

I just hope I get to see a cat.

We slept fitfully. Could have been on nails. 12 solid hours.

We woke refreshed, and had a glorious day of nothing much planned. We took a different route to Marleybone’s High Street and discovered a beautiful little park. We came across the Lobell’s of London, the Ginger Pig.

We decided we needed to breakfast at Ottolenghi, my North Star. Kirsten had the most gorgeous yogurt and fruit bowl, I had the leek and feta danish with zaatar, and we split Brad’s favorite cinnamon pretzel. Look at these gorgeous pastries.

We walked past one of Stanley Tucci’s favorite restaurants, which is in the neighborhood, St. John. Menu looks fab, but we’ll have to wait for all the buzz about it to dissipate to get a reservation.

We felt great so we decided to walk through Hyde Park and into Knightsbridge. On the way we saw a gorgeous little fox.

The walk was lovely. The park beautiful and flowers on every house. They must grow millions of cyclamen for their window boxes every year.

Harrrods was on our list, and it was delightfully quiet so we decided to do makeovers. Had a lovely soul from Cle de Peau give us a once over. Then a fancy cappuccino. Such fun.

We’ve never seen Little Venice, do we took a long walk over, passed the hospital where the Royals have their babies, saw the closest thing I’ve seen to a cat, and got to the canal.

What a great little area of houseboats and history. We took a boat cruise to Camden where we met Paul.

We got the best tour of Camden market, which is a total show! Vintage sellers by the hundreds, every kind of food purveyor you can think of, small shops of every persuasion. From Harrods to Camden are two separate worlds.

Then over to Covent Garden for a spot of tea and a look around. We went to my favorite tea purveyor, Mariage Freres. Such a lovely respite. Paul had a luscious iced green tea and Kirsten and I did the full Monty.

We wandered about and met Abi for dinner at The Ivy. Lovely end to a wonderful day.

On a lesser note, the Internet is spotty in the flat and the hot water is less than stellar. I am making inquiries…..

We arrived at Heathrow at 8:00 Greenwich Mean Time (I just love to say it). With no bags to wait for, we breezed through Passport Control and headed to Heathrow Express, then a taxi, then the flat.

This flat is in the same complex as the one we took last year, but a bit smaller and a bit more utilitarian. It’s adequate, but it won’t be a repeat. Great location though.

We washed our faces and headed for coffee. We didn’t brave Ottolenghi today in our sleepless state, but settled on Cafe Paul for my very favorite Pastel de Nata.

We took in the neighborhood again, Conrans closed, a Swedish coffee place opened, and the homeless guy living in the church alcove has moved.

Daunt Books is still alive and well. The Fromagerie is as charming as ever. The shops in the High Road were getting ready for Christmas and we found out the name of that hip restaurant we always walk by (Granger and Company). Paul met us after school and guided us through the city.

Selfridges was amazing – food and decor.

Next up was Liberty, with all its fineness. (No Goutal candles in sight!). We smelled a few others, but nothing beats that candle.

We stopped for a quick bite and Paul went home to get Abi, and Kirsten and I took the bus back and went to the Wallace collection.

The Wallace Collection never disappoints!

We stopped by Durrants, just to wander through, on our way home – always so English.

Home to rest for a minute, then a quick dinner with Abi and Paul on Baker Street.

What a lovely day! We are both on fumes, and ready for bed. More adventures tomorrow!

It would be deceitful to say I awoke joyfully this morning, but the Election came and happened and we need to move forward. I am just relieved that there was no talk of conspiracies and stolen elections – we live in a country where elections are safe and fair and we need to accept the results and move on. Last time was cruel for the country.

My sister awakened me with a beautiful cappuccino and serenaded me with Tom Petty. It took the sting out.

The weather in Boston was balmy, so I borrowed summer clothes and we hit the road.

We took the bus to Harvard Square ($1.70), thinking it might be the last time we see immigrants. We walked past old haunts, had a lovely lunch, and visited a church grave yard dating to the mid 1600’s. I love me a graveyard…. Many revolutionary patriots are buried there. I burst into tears on this emotional day when I saw a gravestone that read “Here lies the body of a Cat”. On further inspection, it read Cap’t something. I dried my eyes and moved on.

We headed back, Lisa drew me a bath, selected fancy shampoo and styled my hair. What a life – sisters are a small miracle.

Off on the T back to the airport where I was met by the crack Virgin Atlantic staff who kindly upgraded our seats. Love this airline.

Met up with Kirsten, did a spin around the new terminal, had a light supper, spoke with Paul and off we go!

Talk to you from across the Pond.