Palace to Palace, that’s how we roll. I dutifully watched all of Wolf Hall before coming over so I’d be ready for King Henry VIII.
We had a quick breakfast and made the pilgrimage by Tube to Waterloo then by National Rail to Hampton Court. You can get anywhere by public transportation in London.
The Palace and grounds were amazing, but the interpretation was not. We should have hired a great guide.
Three distinct eras are interpreted in this palace and none of them are done well. There were a couple of talks that were interesting, but nothing flowed and very few docents. It was still a good visit and nice to be in the country for the day.
The arms displays always fascinate me. And they did a display of Georgian table settings with napkin folds that were so artistic.
The Kings ate in front of large groups of people to show they were healthy (the Queens also gave birth in front of an audience), and the left over food was then distributed to the townspeople (after the servants had their fill). At least no food waste.
We took a draft horse ride, which gave us a feel for travel in the 1500’s. There was no way to capture the expanse of the grounds in photos, but it was magical out there. How they keep it up, I do not know.
Rose gardens, espailiered pear and apple trees, just acres and acres of it.
We got home a little sleepy (Kirsten did a beautiful Regent Park walk while we rested), but we all ralleyed for dinner.
Halibut, salmon and Dover sole. Lovely and fresh from a local place around the corner.
Paul and Abi came over after work and we chatted and got ready for Paris tomorrow. Talk to you from the Eurostar.
I didn’t sleep well – coffee late in the day is my theory. However, we got up to a glorious day and decided to start it right by heading to Ottolenghi.
We had our favorites, reveled in the fact that we are lucky enough to have favorites here, and hoofed it to the Marleybone Farmers Market.
It was torture to only buy strawberries. A feast for the senses. Maybe sometime I will want to cook when I’m here. It’s always so compelling to eat out at some of the finest restaurants anywhere that I have never used the stove here.
We took a nice walk down to Oxford Street and passed some of our favorite pubs.
We took the Tube to Belgravia to meet Paul and Abi at Peggy Porchen’s for tea.
An Instagramsble kind of place serving a traditional High Tea.
We headed back to the flat with a bag of leftovers and relaxed for a bit before heading to Buckingham Palace.
We toured (no pictures allowed) and then walked to dinner by way of circling the Palace. It has huge grounds. We ended at a traditional locals pub on Petty France Lane (I just like saying it) called the Buckingham Arms. We had traditional food on a table that has been there for a hundred years for sure, drinking bitters in front of a photo of Price Charles pulling a pint. The women’s football championship was on TV and the rowdy crowd was into it. It all felt very real and not at all touristy. We loved it.
We decided to walk off the meal and took a route that led us back by Buckingham Palace again. It felt like the whole day was spent in and around the Palace grounds. We did find some cool things on our walk.
Another McLaren, wash buckets of gorgeous flowers, and a giant picnic basket – what more could we ask for?
21,000 steps (mostly around and inside Buckingham Palace), three great meals and time spent with the family. a great Sunday under our belt.
A proper flight. We actually slept and had a fine breakfast. Heathrow Express and a short cab ride and Richard’s lovely flat in Marleybone. It all feels so normal and familiar. We know where to shop, what we need and how to get around.
Marleybone is pure London. Few tourists, interesting shops, and Regent Park. We daudled around, picked up supplies, napped and met Paul and Abi for dinner at a sweet French place after cocktails at an old British place. The best of everything.
We met a lady walking her bearded dragons in the park (zoom in), Brad checked out 4 MacLarens on the street (that kinda neighborhood). We ate charcuterie and duck confit and quiche and crepes with good wine and then went for a walk in the park.
My garden is my haven, but London gardens are heaven.
I’m snuggled in bed, Lisa and John are at Wembley rockin’ out to Oasis and the first day is a success. 3000 mikes by air and 15,000 steps. We will sleep tonight.
Off to London once again to see the grandson and his girlfriend and to rendezvous with my sister and husband who are there to see Oasis.
I’ll miss my garden, but have left it in good hands.
Lillian has freshly pressed sheets and a clean litter box and a hand maiden checking in on her.
The Delta Lounge didn’t disappoint. A full meal, drinks and the Boston skyline. Flight leaves late, so hopefully we’ll be able to sleep. Let you know how we fare tomorrow.
As we got into the shuttle van to take us to our car, we chatted with a couple that just got back from Paris and were comparing notes.
Copenhagen is not Paris. Paris is beauty at every turn and a refined sense of style and taste and artwork beyond your imagination. Paris is vast and has rules about where to eat and what to eat and when.
Copenhagen is not London. It has royalty, but on a minuscule scale next to London. London has theatre and culture and a long detailed history. London has so many different areas and they all feel different. London has David Bowie and the Beatles.
Copenhagen is not Italy. It is not passionate and effervescent. It doesn’t have astonishing natural beauty. Italy has a reverence for food and a zest for life found no where else. Italy has antiquities and vibrant history. Italy has Bella Figura.
Copenhagen is bite size. Copenhagen embraces the old and actively chases the future. Copenhagen is stable and sane. It is European, a bit Anglo and also Nordic. It’s a mix of the best of all of them. I think I’ve fallen so hard because it’s not just a good place to visit, it’s a good place to live. It has an enough crumbling grand buildings to sweep my heart, yet mixes them with clean, modern, efficient buildings so that you can live comfortably.
Education and children are valued, and not with lip service. Childcare is provided, kids are fed at school, healthcare is universal. People are not stressed nor are they lazy. It is a wonderful mix. The food is great, the coffee exemplary. The only hitch is the language. I have never heard an uglier language. It all sounds like gibberish that a comedian made up. It would be a bitch to learn.
However, at this phase of my life, to go to a happy, safe, clean, healthy place that is a little European, and little hip, and very relaxed seems like a good fit.
In Italy and France (and a bit in London), you always feel a little frumpy. You really need to put some effort into every outfit. You feel like you have to do things correctly, there are standards and rules. In Copenhagen it’s come as you are. It’s freeing. It’s not that they don’t care, they are just not judging the book by the cover. No one is posturing.
And they are intelligent, and well educated, and industrious and know how to have a good time. They are my people.
I’m sold and we’re going back. I want to see the countryside and the beaches. I’d like to get out on the water (with a captain) and see the rest of the islands. Who’s with me?
The Copenhagen Airport is our final Copenhagen destination. We’ve had quite a trip. The last day of any trip we’re usually pacing around, waiting for a cab, eager to leave. Not this trip.
We went out to our favorite coffee shop, sat in the sun and chatted with the locals.
We did our last walk around the harbor, noticing the new boats, commenting on the restaurants and clearly not wanting to leave. We met Laura, the music teacher from TaiPei who was on her way to Amsterdam and we had a chat. We saw Lena, the hotel manager, on her bike as we were walking to the Metro and she stopped to say goodbye. We got on the train and headed to the airport begrudgingly.
As we leisurely walked past all of our little shops and storefronts, we commented on how nervous we were when we landed. We weren’t sure about how to take the Metro. It seemed like a far walk to the hotel early last week and the neighborhood was very still that morning and felt a bit sketchy. Now it seemed comfortable and easy.
The Metro cost $6 for two of us to the airport and took 15 minutes at most. We squeezed all of my new clothes into our carry on suitcases, but SAS had other plans for us. A beautiful but grim gate agent said that she suspected that our suitcases were heavier than the 8 kilos allowed (17 lbs) and that we needed to check them. We said we brought them on board getting here and her response was that no one in the US checks!
Okay, we were un encumbered.
Fast pass TSA and into the lounge for a quick bite. Lots of shops and a very friendly airport awaits the last of our Kroner.
A couple of things about Denmark.
The bicycles- 600,000 of them in the city. More than the number of inhabitants. The most cycle friendly city in the world – other city planners come to see how it’s done. 50% of all employees bike to work every day. I did a deep dive into how this happened, and though Denmark had a big bike culture in the 1940’s, it petered out and began a small resurgence in the 1970’s, but slowly grew through city planning efforts at designated bike lanes and bike parking to what it is today – a culture! There are 40 bike shops in Copenhagen and 700 bicycle shop/repair employees. It is religion.
Bike lock
Fed ex is delivered on bikes, the locks are the coolest, and bike wear is office wear. People transport their shopping, animals and children on their bikes.
It’s very cool.
Smoking and vaping – we saw very little of it. As compared with most European cities, it’s almost non existent.
Drinking is ubiquitous. Everyone drinks all the time. On the street, in cafes, at lunch, on boats, probably at breakfast. Beer, wine, Snapps, cocktails, you name it. Aside from the guy tumbling out of the Eiffel bar, we saw no public drunkenness.
Sexuality is comfortable. No one blinks an eye. Many girl couples, many boys with pearls and nail polish, and they mingle with everyone else. It’s like brown eyes and blue eyes – no big deal. Lots of bathrooms are gender neutral because they are closed stalls. Pornography is not illegal, but we saw no displays of lurid anything anywhere.
They are not an overly demonstrative bunch, but they are friendly. They tend to grow up, go to school and work within a 20 mile radius. They teased that in Denmark a long distance relationship is an hour away. Because of this, they tend to have a close circle of friends and are a bit insular. However, we found everyone charming and warm.
Crime. No one worries overtly about it. We saw some graffiti in the outer boroughs and some bars on windows, but not a lot. Walking at 11:00 PM was comfortable.
Work life balance. They seem to be very good at this. Many scientists, designers and craftsmen that take their jobs seriously, but also make time for their family. There are duals income couples as a norm, but roles within the household seem to be shared. No one is racing – the pace is calmer, but they seem to get a lot done. They trust their government and Covid was miserable, but there were no protests or anti vax, anti mask crazies. They all did their part to protect the country as a whole.
Children are not protected the way we Americans protect our kids. They are left outside in their strollers while parents go pick something up. Things aren’t as “babyproofed”. They fall down and learn not to do it again. Parents aren’t worried all the time.
School is free and seemingly pretty encompassing. From trades to graduate level learning, everything is available.
Taxes are high, but services are all encompassing. You get what you pay for, and everyone is good with it.
The water is so clean in the canals that you understand why people swim all the time. Crystal clear, see the bottom clear. They say it was a real project, but they did it. The water from the tap is excellent. I drank from the tap every day. That’s saying a lot.
We finally found a cat. And he was a well fed, friendly cat, but we had to travel outside of the city proper to find him.
Yesterday, our Danish dinner mates, who were young and hip, encouraged us to travel outside of the central district to Norrebro, where Noel has his restaurant, and Frederikborg where the University garden is. They said that is where the Danish people live. Like Boston, there are folks who live in town, but they settle in Brookline and Arlington. We were game!
Inspector checking tickets
Brad is not a subway guy, but the subways here have converted him. Most were built only 20 years ago, and they look like they were built yesterday. Boston’s subways were built 125 years ago. The cars come every 4 minutes – we walked into the station and onto a car. Because they are so new, they connect with the train and light rail systems and come into the airport terminal.
They are a dream of mass transit. There is a large bus network and a water ferry as well, all for the price of a subway ticket – $3. You can bring your dog and your bike (and presumably your cat). You don’t tap in and out like London, it’s more like Germany – everyone can buy a monthly pass very inexpensively, and day trippers buy tickets at the station or at convenience stores or on your phone (if you have a Danish phone number). Inspectors do random checks to see if riders pay, and this was our first sighting of an inspector this week.
The Metro station in Frederiksberg comes into a lovely mall with a supermarket, gorgeous bathrooms and a large display of ugly, very comfortable shoes. Yes, the nail salons were run by Vietnamese.
A light mist was falling, so we dithered in the mall and had a wonderful cardamom roll – the Dane’s best pastry – and another cup of glorious coffee. Have I mentioned how ridiculously good all of the coffee is?
Fortified, out we went to find the University garden. What a treat! Very much like the Arnold Arboretum with trees and specimen bushes from all over the world. Humor me – here is some garden porn.
Roped fencing
Winding paths lined with roping climbers, rhododendrons of the most beautiful shades, trees that looked fake. All lovely.
The borough has paths for bikes (of course) and paths for walking through herbaceous beds in addition to the sidewalks. The homes are substantial, but close together, and there are playgrounds all over that were filled with parents and children.
We got back on the Metro and headed to Norrebro to see the famous cemetery that every Dane has told me about, Assistenskiregaden.
It was gorgeous. Huge and very wooded and well planted with graves interspersed. There are areas to picnic, walkways, benches, alleys of trees and even Hans Christian Andersen is buried there. He did write The Emperor’s New Clothes, so it’s fitting that we visited his grave given what is going on in America. I do love me a cemetery.
Danish authorHC Anderson
We had a little lunch at a chain fish place (not an inspiration), walked through the Arabic part of town and saw more barber shops and hair salons than in the whole of Massachusetts. Everyone must get their hair cut weekly.
The complexion of the residents of these outer boroughs was much more diverse than city center. It was encouraging to see such a mixture of cultures — even the restaurants were very diverse — Vietnamese, Kebab shops, Falafel stands, Greek Food, Curry joints and hot dog stands. We saw a great pop up business, bicycle cleaning.
We headed to yet another part of town, Vesterbro, where there is a community center run by the owner of our hotel. It is housed in an abandoned church, and is a free place to hang out, grab an inexpensive meal, coffee, see some entertainment, take a yoga class or make pottery. It’s called Absolon.
Fab!
We finally headed back, but made one last walk through the city, wistfully looking at our favorite sites.
The ice cream shop was open on our way back. I asked about the whipped cream…. It’s not whipped cream, it’s called Guf, and it’s homemade marshmallow fluff, in several flavors! This I discovered on my last day!
So back to our beloved apartment where we got our books and took them to the canal to sit and read in the late afternoon sun as the boats went by.
We dressed for dinner and headed out to Kanalan, it’s been there for 40 years and has a minor Michelin rating. On our way we passed this dive bar we go past every night, The Eiffel Bar. Windows blacked out, beaten up door, we always tease that we’re going to go in. The door swings open as we’re passing and a guy that looked liked a drunken Lurch from the Addams family, stumbles out. What does he do, though he can barely walk? Gets on his bike!
Kanalan was as expected – cozy, delicious, buzzy and friendly. No conversations with other diners, but a convivial atmosphere and wonderful food.
Eclectic and delicious. Ceviche, smashed cucumber salad, grilled prosciutto, potato with smoked halibut, spicy lamb and skewered beef with feta and mint. What a way to end the trip!
We are totally settled in. We know our way around, which coffee to order and are beginning to take it slow.
Sunday seems to be a family day for the Danes. Lots of bunches of flowers bought (it is not Mother’s Day in Europe), kids out on bikes, market shopping and a later start to the day – including us.
Lots of coffee to choose from!
It’s marathon day and the city was abuzz. It was fun to be part of it. Thousands of runners from all over the world were here, lots of people pushing folks in wheelchairs, lots of women and lots of running clubs.
We got our coffees and walked around the marathon route and cheered the runners on.
We were going to hop on the Metro to visit a bakery I had read about that has supposedly the best cardamom buns in the city when we were waylaid by a sidewalk sale in front of that lovely store, Magasin.
Digging in bins, Filene’s Basement style, was wonderful. I’ve sooo missed it! This was a promotion with all proceeds going to the Red Cross (just like that last markdown at Filene’s Basement where you wrote the check to charity). I got two sweaters, a blouse and two dresses for $57. My kinda shopping!
A little Sunday shopping at a street market was well in keeping with our “Living like Danes” vibe.
Torvenhallern
We decided to head to the food market for a little lunch to be eaten outdoors, like the rest of the country. Torvelhallern is a food haven. Fresh meats, fish, cheeses, fruits and vegetables of the finest quality along with a multitude of prepared food stalls and restaurants. We did the once over and made a few decisions.
Charcuterie, cheese and salads with the ubiquitous bread were the final decisions.
I even used the public bathrooms, which were unexpectedly clean. An aside, I haven’t mentioned the cleanliness here. Spotless. Everywhere. Some of it is cultural, but we watched a janitor clean up the garbage cans and bathrooms twice while we had lunch. They take it seriously. When the marathon was over, a team of garbage trucks descended upon the city.
We started to amble back across town, and saw these two chairs in the sun at the water’s edge by the library (there is public seating everywhere in this city). The Danes leisurely loll around on these benches with a glass of wine or a beer at all times of the day and night. We followed suit. We sat still for thirty minutes just watching the world go by. This is a whole new thing for us.
We stopped for a glorious Danish ice cream on the way home and when asked if we wanted whipped cream on our cone, we said no. As we were eating our luscious cones canal side, we saw people coming out with multiple flavors of what looked like mousse on top of their cones. Rookie mistake.
The day was fair, so when we got to our rooms we decided to take our books outside and read in the sunshine. We watched the world stroll by and boat by — another flotilla on a gorgeous Sunday.
Dinner tonight was once again communal style at Kanalheuset. We met a lovely German couple in the bar before dinner and they have been living in Denmark for the last two years. They are loving it. It’s more expensive than Germany, but also much more exciting and fun. He works at Norvo Nortel and in his group of 40 scientists, there are 15 countries represented. Denmark has a whole program of assimilation for immigrants and his wife is taking Danish lessons and their daughter has finally started to feel at home (she’s 16).
Dinner was at a table with an Australian endocrinologist and American who lived and taught in Taipei for the 20 years (now back in Rhode Island) and two lovely young Danes, one who works at the hotel and another who is a restauranteur. Interesting conversations about travel, healthcare, living abroad, food, and politics. Every conversation we’ve had with folks is open and thoughtful and sane. It reminded me of America before 2008. We have so lost our compass in the US and the whole world sees it.
Anyway, we’ve had a leisurely Danish Sunday and we’re settled in with a pot of tea and some quiet time. A perfect Sunday night.
Tomorrow we may head to the outer boroughs at the suggestion of our new Danish friends, Rosa and Noel. Noel’s restaurant is out in Norrebro, but he’s closed tomorrow. It is supposed to be a lovely area with a cemetery there that people picnic in. Frederksborg is not too far away where the university garden of that landscape architect we met the other night, works. We’ll see what the day brings.
We clocked a lot of miles yesterday, so today was going to be an easy day.
View from our bed as I woke slowly
We started at the local bakery for a….. Danish.
Brad was delighted. We took the Metro over to Tivoli Gardens because I refused to walk another 8 miles today.
The Metro is sparkling clean, and on time to the 1/2 minute. The Metro stop took us through the Central Train Station (impressive) and right to Tivoli Gardens. The line for entry was crazy, so we decided to walk around for a while and stumbled upon the City Hall.
16 weddings were taking place, they have pre made bouquets and rings. When we spoke to the guard, he said it’s the new Las Vegas!
Off we went to Tivoli, sure it would be a tourist trap, and boy were we surprised. Gorgeous, well staffed, fantastic flowers, lovely paths, lots of amusements, but all so tastefully done. Here’s a photo bomb of some of it.
Huge selection of eating establishments, a gorgeous hotel, all in the middle of the city. Built in the 1840’s and maniacally maintained. So worth a trip, the photos don’t do it justice. Oh, and it was gospel day, so we heard three great gospel choirs who were welcomed with much applause.
We headed across town and stumbled on the Copenhagen Museum, which was so interesting. This city has been through wars and pestilence and fire and flood, and it betters itself after every tragedy. It is a model in urban planning, an inspiration for social justice, and a beacon for peace.
Copenhagen in 1550
There are two modern buildings we wanted to see that have a main thoroughfare built right through them – The Blox building and the Library. The Blox building has the Danish Architecture Center in it, so we started there and got an education on how design evolved in Denmark. They were really just copying Rome and France in the late 1600’s and 1700’s, but then started developing their own style. The Napoleonic Wars took place in the 1800’s, England slayed them, and what was left became a place for artists. A movement developed and Danish Design was born.
The new wing of the library
The new library is right next door and is attached to the old library. They join the new and old well.
The old library
Being Saturday, everyone was out on their boats. The canals looked like flotillas, and there must be some law about consuming liquor while boating because everyone was festively drinking.
We had a cup of tea, changed our clothes and headed over to the Opera Park, which is a massive development in the old Naval Yard. The Opera House itself is a sight to see, and the park that surrounds it is majestic. It all sits on the water, the parking is under a beautifully curated park, and the glass walkways have sod roofs, so you are protected from the elements, but are walking within nature. My photos will not do it justice – it’s majestic.
We had dinner in the atrium restaurant which feels like you’re outdoors. Food and service were stellar, sorry, no pictures.
Miso waffles with horseradish cream, tuna tartare with crisped garlic flakes, scallops with tiger milk and radishes, cod with celeriac and beurre blanc with trout roe, salad with potatoes and pine nuts and rhubarb compote with hazelnut sorbet and dark chocolate bits.
Fabulous.
We got tickets to see a ballet performance of The Great Gatsby, (celebrating its 100th year). We weren’t sure what to expect, but we were blown away. First of all, the interior of the theatre is magical, but the adaption was terrific. Music by Gershwin, dance was modern ballet, and costumes were to die for. Brilliant.
We had a nice conversation with the Danish couple next to us. I guess the show has gotten rave reviews, and the discussions have been about America going the way of Gatsby.
As we left at 10:30 on a chilly night, half of the attendees left by foot and bicycle, and most attendees were not under 50. It is an amazing culture of walking and cycling.
High heels and a dress
Our first days here, the walk to the Opera House would have seemed arduous and long. We didn’t even think about it tonight. The streets are safe (we have honestly heard two police sirens in 4 days) everyone is walking or riding, and it all just seems normal to walk a mile back from dinner.
We are both in love with not only the city, but the people and the lifestyle. They all seem sane, hard working, generous of spirit, and accepting. Social justice for all is paramount and tolerance is in their DNA. They are environmentally conscious, recycle thoughtfully, purchase things for permanence and strike a good balance of work and play. Not sure I could live here forever, but it could easily win second place.
We didn’t wake up thinking we do anything hip, but it just happened.
After last night’s feast, along with the breakfast and lunch that preceded it, I couldn’t think of eating but we did need coffee. We tumbled out in search of a cup and everywhere we turned, people were sitting outside enjoying the morning. The Danish love the outdoors and their bicycles – there must be 100,000 bicycles in Copenhagen. There are also some humorous shops.
Just across the canal was a boisterous place, so we trotted over. A little rail car filled with the most interesting people, candles lit all over first thing in the morning, tattoos, piercings and not a heterosexual couple in sight. It was fabulous! We sat in the sun and chatted with crowd and felt 100 years younger.
We ambled over to an exhibit that looked interesting on Greenland and the Faroe Islands. I was thinking landscapes, but it was all this multimedia imagery displayed in the most interesting space.
We finally went over to Nyhavn (the tourist area) and watched this boat turn 180 degrees and go in the opposite direction. It was the most amazing thing – he had inches to spare.
There is a Bloomingdale’s of Copenhagen and it’s called Magasin. We went in and I can assure you that I will not be adopting much Danish style. It is far too hip for me – loose dresses with ankle socks and funky flat shoes, Frilly, puffy short dresses, uber baggy pants that puddle over your shoes…
But the store had a food hall that kept me occupied for quite a while. We decided to do like the Danes and grab some lunch and eat outdoors. The vendors were tremendous, but decisions were made.
There were 6 bearnaise sauces to choose from and 3 hollandaise. It kills me.
We settled on Turkey with curry mayo and cucumber and roast beef with grilled onions and potato salad and the ubiquitous fresh pressed carrot apple ginger juice.
Then we headed into the Kunst Charlottenborg, the premier avant-garde exhibition hall. We digested pleasantly in the theatre watching a documentary on a Brazilian homeless encampment, followed by exhibits that need more advanced education than we have.
We stopped at the amber museum (fascinating) and then the Danish War museum which was extremely well put together. The museum was huge, covered 500 years of war history and was beautifully laid out. Not what we were expecting.
The last thing we had any gas left for was the Glyptoteket. It is a wonderful museum founded by Carl Jacobsen of the Carlsborg brewing fortune. (we learned in the war museum that all soldiers and sailors were given beer to drink daily — how fortunes are made!)
A lovely way to end our sightseeing.
Degas, Gaugin, Rodin and ancient Grecian and Egyptian antiquities, including two mummies!
We were approaching 16,000 steps and couldn’t look at one more beautiful thing, so we headed home and rested for a few hours. Again, Kanalhuset is a haven. Quiet neighborhood, peaceful, spacious room, and hip enough to keep the vibe going!
Dinner tonight was at a modern Nordic restaurant called No. 2. It’s the little sister to AOC, with storied chefs Christian Aoro and Soren Selin. We came into a nearly empty restaurant and thought we had made a mistake selecting this, but our very professional waiter put us at ease immediately. Drinks and the most heavenly bread (and we’ve had some great bread here) put us in a fine mood.
Brad had the pork chop and veloute of potato and morels and I had a grilled romaine and kale salad with capers and chives in a black currant dressing. We shared the smoked trout and a glass of Nebbiolo.
We were just entertaining dessert when 25 Americans from Novo Nordisk swept in. It got loud and ugly quickly, so we headed home.
Another beautiful Danish day on the books! God knows what’s in store tomorrow.
Civilized Cross Many Countries 