The Best of Copenhagen

We clocked a lot of miles yesterday, so today was going to be an easy day.

We started at the local bakery for a….. Danish.

Brad was delighted. We took the Metro over to Tivoli Gardens because I refused to walk another 8 miles today.

The Metro is sparkling clean, and on time to the 1/2 minute. The Metro stop took us through the Central Train Station (impressive) and right to Tivoli Gardens. The line for entry was crazy, so we decided to walk around for a while and stumbled upon the City Hall.

16 weddings were taking place, they have pre made bouquets and rings. When we spoke to the guard, he said it’s the new Las Vegas!

Off we went to Tivoli, sure it would be a tourist trap, and boy were we surprised. Gorgeous, well staffed, fantastic flowers, lovely paths, lots of amusements, but all so tastefully done. Here’s a photo bomb of some of it.

Huge selection of eating establishments, a gorgeous hotel, all in the middle of the city. Built in the 1840’s and maniacally maintained. So worth a trip, the photos don’t do it justice. Oh, and it was gospel day, so we heard three great gospel choirs who were welcomed with much applause.

We headed across town and stumbled on the Copenhagen Museum, which was so interesting. This city has been through wars and pestilence and fire and flood, and it betters itself after every tragedy. It is a model in urban planning, an inspiration for social justice, and a beacon for peace.

There are two modern buildings we wanted to see that have a main thoroughfare built right through them – The Blox building and the Library. The Blox building has the Danish Architecture Center in it, so we started there and got an education on how design evolved in Denmark. They were really just copying Rome and France in the late 1600’s and 1700’s, but then started developing their own style. The Napoleonic Wars took place in the 1800’s, England slayed them, and what was left became a place for artists. A movement developed and Danish Design was born.

The new library is right next door and is attached to the old library. They join the new and old well.

Being Saturday, everyone was out on their boats. The canals looked like flotillas, and there must be some law about consuming liquor while boating because everyone was festively drinking.

We had a cup of tea, changed our clothes and headed over to the Opera Park, which is a massive development in the old Naval Yard. The Opera House itself is a sight to see, and the park that surrounds it is majestic. It all sits on the water, the parking is under a beautifully curated park, and the glass walkways have sod roofs, so you are protected from the elements, but are walking within nature. My photos will not do it justice – it’s majestic.

We had dinner in the atrium restaurant which feels like you’re outdoors. Food and service were stellar, sorry, no pictures.

Miso waffles with horseradish cream, tuna tartare with crisped garlic flakes, scallops with tiger milk and radishes, cod with celeriac and beurre blanc with trout roe, salad with potatoes and pine nuts and rhubarb compote with hazelnut sorbet and dark chocolate bits.

Fabulous.

We got tickets to see a ballet performance of The Great Gatsby, (celebrating its 100th year). We weren’t sure what to expect, but we were blown away. First of all, the interior of the theatre is magical, but the adaption was terrific. Music by Gershwin, dance was modern ballet, and costumes were to die for. Brilliant.

We had a nice conversation with the Danish couple next to us. I guess the show has gotten rave reviews, and the discussions have been about America going the way of Gatsby.

As we left at 10:30 on a chilly night, half of the attendees left by foot and bicycle, and most attendees were not under 50. It is an amazing culture of walking and cycling.

Our first days here, the walk to the Opera House would have seemed arduous and long. We didn’t even think about it tonight. The streets are safe (we have honestly heard two police sirens in 4 days) everyone is walking or riding, and it all just seems normal to walk a mile back from dinner.

We are both in love with not only the city, but the people and the lifestyle. They all seem sane, hard working, generous of spirit, and accepting. Social justice for all is paramount and tolerance is in their DNA. They are environmentally conscious, recycle thoughtfully, purchase things for permanence and strike a good balance of work and play. Not sure I could live here forever, but it could easily win second place.

Goodnight from Copenhagen.