Comfortable in Copenhagen

Can’t tell you what a good night’s sleep has meant. Yesterday was a full day and we were both exhausted. Last night’s dinner conversation invigorated us, and we woke up with a great appreciation for the culture here.

We saw this little bird and he seemed to want to make eye contact with us. He wasn’t afraid and he just emitted this sense of calm and joy. I think our friend Ron sent him too us. We both felt it.

Breakfast at the hotel was simple and delicious. Home made bread, exceptional Danish butter with flaky salt, some cheese, an egg and a bit of yogurt with poached fruit and granola. Every component was special. I thought of Kirsten and our breakfasts at Ottolenghi. We spoke with the manager, Lena, and just discussed so many wonderful things about Copenhagen. This place has a real soul.

The Botanical Gardens was our first stop. Lovely, but not noteworthy. We sat in the sun, had a second coffee, saw the butterfly conservatory and whiled away the morning.

We headed over to Frederickborg Palace, but needed to make a reservation so went to the next palace, Amelienborg and the changing of the guard.

The Amelienborg Palace complex is where the current King and Queen live. It is opulent and elegant, but much more reasonable in scope. You could imagine a family (a royal family) actually living in it. That said, the “museum rooms” from past monarch’s were impressive and well documented.

After traversing the city, we were getting a bit hungry and headed over to Aaman 1921 on Wendy’s recommendation for Smorebrod and Snapps. It was fantastic!

Herring, plaice, shrimp and chicken all sauced and seasoned with smooth and crunchy things. So many flavored Snapps!

Best of all, we sat next to couple from Miami by way of Vienna and Venezuela. They have both lived in Florida for over 20 years and we had a very interesting conversation on politics and history and what is discussed and what is silent. They were both more conservative, but are aghast at what is taking place. Both their children have applied for Viennese citizenship as they all clearly remember why they fled Venezuela, and want to be able to flee America if they need to. You learn so much when you engage with people.

The weather has been stellar and Brad loves being on the water, so we took a cruise around the city.

We got a great perspective being on the water and got to see the Royal Yacht. So much naval history and commerce that emanated over the water. Like the Germans, the Danes don’t side step the mistakes of their past and pointed out their colonial missteps and where the trading took place.

By this time it was 4:30, rush hour, and it was amazing to see so many cyclists going home from work. It was almost comical to my American eyes, but there are clear, large bike lanes and other pedestrian lanes, and the cars and bikes seem to coexist well.

Another nap was needed before heading out to dinner. This little apartment is so nice – we can spread out, make a cup of tea and really spend time here without feeling claustrophobic.

We took a leisurely stroll to dinner and saw so many folks gathered along the water just having a drink or dinner together – not a restaurant, folks just bring a beer, sit down and enjoy the sunset together after work.

Dinner was at a little French place with exceptional service. Food was fantastic and we struck up a conversation with the couple next to us. Everyone is so convivial here. He is a comedy writer (Netflix series, Baby Fever, Nikolaj Feifer) and she was the most beautiful landscape architect I have ever seen.

Best bit of Danish humor: Nick said that the rest of the world has always emulated and copied the United States for years, it’s now nice to the see the United States copying something from other countries: authoritarian regimes. We busted out laughing,

Gougere with truffles, white asparagus with shrimp and hollandaise, boudin blanc and entrecôte of beef with bearnaise. We will sleep tonight!

The walk home was delightful. Met a group of Senegalese young men celebrating something, a couple of boaters tying up for the night, and the quiet cobblestone streets of Copenhagen.

It is truly a comfortable place.