Exhaustingly beautiful

Venice is just a treasure trove of beauty. The city itself is amazing, the buildings are in a state of elegant decay, the carvings, the bridges, the canals, the light, but the artwork….. overwhelming. You need weeks here, not days.

Far from perfect, the centuries have taken their toll, but the beauty is beguiling. I can’t imagine what it was like when it was all fresh and new.

We spent the day with Antonella, a certified historical guide that Michele, the concierge, arranged for us. Michele left the Gritti Palace to come work here. Tomasso, his associate, left the Cipriani when the French bought it. The team here is first rate. I don’t think I showed you the lobby – it’s on the third floor, in Venetian style.

The hotel was the former stock exchange for Venice. The building had been empty for at least 20 years when the exchange moved to the mainland. On our extensive walk around the city, we saw the original Merchant Exchange and the first bank. Dating back to the 12th century.

We learned about the Republic of Venezia, the Doges, the Senators, the Noble families and progressive style of governing Venice enjoyed. It’s heyday were the 1500’s, when it was the Merchant of the World. Women could inherit property and money; doweries could be revoked for bad treatment of the women; women could run businesses; and the Republic’s laws were made by a group of 400 with equal votes.

Books were treasured and the most extensive private library was opened to the public 2 days a week and left to the state upon the owner’s death. The printing press was adopted early, and the law ensured that for every book that was printed here, one volume went to the library. The library currently holds over 1 million volumes.

The Correr museum is attached to the library and we spent the better part of an hour visiting the rooms and learning the twists and turns of Venetian history. The building originally housed the State offices; then Napoleon came in and redecorated badly, razing buildings; then the Hapsburgs came in and glitzed things up until the First World War. Each left their mark.

Each room was dazzling, the history fascinating, and scope of it was insane. And this was one museum. We never saw the church or the Palazzo Ducal. We were exhausted by the beauty.

An interesting thing, Venice exhibits modern art within these museums as special exhibitions. We saw a mountain of coal, large canvases with one color of paint, etc. the juxtaposition does make you wonder about modern art.

Each medallion on the ceiling was done by a different artist, and each represents a different form of thought. Now look at the solid color art on the left wall from the new exhibition. Very different.

We walked through the throngs of humanity, over the Rialto bridge into San Polo. We saw the local people and artisans on small little alleys that you would never find. Leather crafters, glass blowers, paper makers, and fabric designers. Rubelli fabrics was my favorite. No pictures, sorry.

The Scuola Grande di San Rocco, was the reason I wanted to come to San Polo, but we were just spent. Here’s the building and the sign for the exhibit – we never ventured inside.

It was 2:00 and time for lunch and a seat!

We found a quiet restaurant and sat and talked and laughed and had a macchiato. Antonella left us and we headed to the Guggenheim. By the time we got there, we decided we just needed to go home, so we turned around and headed for our luxurious bed. I know, I can’t waste time in stores shopping, but I can take a bath mid day.

By the way, I wanted you to see the size of the doors. Leather on one side, wood on the other.

We ordered ice, made Negroni’s and ate our little bread snacks in bed.

At 7:00 PM we decided a dip in the rooftop pool might revive us.

Part hydro massage, part pool, it was lovely and refreshing, and off we go on our last night.

One more mission – I doused myself in the last of Chazy’s parfum and decided to leave the bottle in Venice. Where else but Harry’s bar on the grand canal. I found a little place in a window well by the front door that looked like it might not be noticed for years.

We sat at the minuscule bar, feeling very sophisticated and in walks this very drunk, elegantly attired young, handsome American. He started a scene and the manager gallantly tried to subdue him and finally, uno, due tre, three bartenders and the manager opened the front door and hauled him out! In seconds. Quite a scene, and a lovely story, worthy of the $22 glass of Punt e Mes and soda.

I love these tiled advertisements in the sidewalks. A newer part of Venice’s history. No one will know what these businesses were 50 years from now.

We’re ready to go home. I ordered a salad and Brad order lasagne for dinner at a little joint. We are sated and overwhelmed. You could spend two weeks here to just see the art. It’s a place we should come back to. Thank God Delta has non stop flights.

Arrivederci.