Slow Food and Fast Cars

I slept deeply for the first time this trip in Verona. I love this place and we’ll be back. Breakfast was a joy and Naima, at Il Relais, truly made us feel special. I can’t wait to come back – maybe opera season? Are you listening Carleen? This could be fun.

We left with a wonderful feeling and headed towards Parma to eat the cheese and prosciutto and see the Duomo before heading to Casa Maria Luigia in Modena. The usual traffic nonsense on the autostrada frustration of where to park in Parma, but we took it in stride.

We only spent a few hours in Parma, a lovely city, but I’m not feeling any great rush at going back. Beautiful and easy to get around, but no place to linger. The Duomo was amazing. It looks ho hum on the outside, but inside, it’s overwhelmingly beautiful. You could spend a full day just there, and I think we spent at least an hour – that’s saying something for us. Each nave was done by different artists in totally different styles. This is going to sound crazy, but they reminded me of Bergdorf’s windows at Christmas — each one totally different and equally special. Amazing to think about how it was constructed and how each artist was selected.

We had a light lunch at a joint in the piazza — nothing special, but just a lovely afternoon with delicious charcuterie. The culotello makes prosciutto seem like deli ham.

Finally the trip to Modena to Casa Maria Luigia — we planned our trip around the dates they were available. A magical spot with magical staff. What started as a pipe dream during Covid with a daily Instagram show with Massimo Bottura and family called Kitchen Quarantine and twice weekly Zoom Italian lessons, had finally materialized as a dream come true. As we were driving here, my two friends from my Italian class wrote that they are both in Italy and we should extend our stay and see them. Kismet? I may try. Your thoughts?

Really gorgeous grounds. Super primo Italian country house. Our penthouse suite is transportive. Two floors, a third floor cupola and a small terrace. A killer sound system with 50 vinyl records spanning decades of music, a TV room, giant bath and modern works of art in a perfectly minimalist setting. Snacks and robes and slippers – heaven.

So far we’ve played ‘60’s jazz, Sade, Sarah Vaughan, David Bowie, and Elvis is next.

After a stroll we headed to the Acetaia (vinegar distillery) on the grounds to see how traditional balsamico is made. Carolina told us about the process – Trebbiano Spania grapes are harvested, crushed and cooked down to “must”. Then it’s fermented until the alcohol leaves in steel vats, then put into old wooden barrels , much like Scotch whiskey and it’s left to age for a year or so. Then it is transferred to another set of old barrels in the attic of the Acetaia to breathe the air and moisture for up to 25 years. Quite a project!

There was a tasting and some mingling with the other guests and we conversed with these two lovely young people (30 maybe?). It warms my heart to know there are 30 year olds who care enough about culture to go to a vinegar tasting and have dinner here. But guess what? They are from Jacksonville, FL!!! The world is a small place.

We spent aperitivo hour with Valentina in the public rooms while she made us drinks. Brad had Franciacorta (officially widely taste tested on this trip as better then Prosecco – sorry Giulio), and I tried a Negroni with a vinegar instead of Campari — a Vingroni?? She is a world traveller and wants to pursue setting up culinary and cultural travel itineraries (another cool 30 year old) – Raluca, she’s going to call you.

We rested for a bit and then dressed to go out and try a little local restaurant that the Botturas eat at called La Nunziadenia. As we were leaving the property, I heard this voice….

Massimo!!!!

Just home from India where they fund a program to feed children, and we caught him for the few minutes he was on property. He was gracious and warm and Brad told him a story about making tortellini, we laughed and he let us have a photo.

Dear Lord.

Off to Nunziadiena and dinner cooked in traditional ways. Brad had veal, I had lamb, we shared tortellini in brodo and drank a lovely local Lambrusco. To navigate the menu, Alessandra was called from the kitchen to help us with what Faraona was (Guinea Fowl), and we struck up a lovely conversation with yet one more interesting 30 year old. A San Francisco native, who moved first to Spain, then here to hone her cooking skills. She’s met a boy, she’s bought a house, and she’s like family at La Nunziadiena.

Back at Casa Maria Luigia – a house made amaretto and a few cookies in the library before trotting upstairs to bed. What a day. Everything I could have wished for.