Ragusa, Modica and Scicli

We met our guide, Paolo this morning after another perfect breakfast and decided to take in all the UNESCO Baroque sites in Sicily today.

In 1693 there was a major earthquake that leveled most of Southeastern Sicily, destroying all of the medieval buildings — I mean all. Because it was a wealthy area, the Noble families and the churches all had the funds to rebuild. They rebuilt on top of old buildings in Ragusa, but built in different areas in Modica, Noto and Scicli. So everything we saw was built in the 1700’s and some in the 1800’s, but in the Baroque style. Very different than our Newburyport buildings of this same vintage.

We travelled through orange groves, carob plantations, olive groves and almond orchards. The smell of the orange blossoms was intoxicating. Limestone walls, fields of poppies, wildflowers were everywhere. Sicily isn’t tidy — it’s rough and poor and fertile and full of tragedy and rebirth. It is very much like Transylvania and it touches me.

And then there are the churches….

One of the highlights was a visit to Cinabro Carretieri in Ragusa Ibla. These are the last of the artisans that build and paint the Sicilian Carrozze, the Ferrari of the 1800’s. Special ironworks that tinkle, ornamented in every way possible, these carts have been commissioned by Dolce and Gabbana. Rock star carvers and painters.

Brad was delighted and fascinated, and actually owns some of the tools they use.

Next was Modica, a food capital of this region and the home of European chocolate. The Sicilians were brought the cocoa from Mexico via the Spaniards. The chocolate was bitter, so the Italians, being Italian, improved the recipe. They added sugar and spices and came up with a crunchy, delicately seasoned treat. Paolo took us to the best chocolatier, and you all may be lucky enough to taste this when I get home. This chocolatier has the first chocolate aging cave where chocolate is placed with herbs and spices and infused with flavors. Here you have nutmeg chocolate.

Next was Scicli, home of one the best cannolis in Italy and the film set for Commisario Montalbano. I took a picture on the set.

And I leave you with videos of the cannoli being made and eaten. Buon appetito!