Civilized Cross Many Countries

We finally found a cat. And he was a well fed, friendly cat, but we had to travel outside of the city proper to find him.

Yesterday, our Danish dinner mates, who were young and hip, encouraged us to travel outside of the central district to Norrebro, where Noel has his restaurant, and Frederikborg where the University garden is. They said that is where the Danish people live. Like Boston, there are folks who live in town, but they settle in Brookline and Arlington. We were game!

Brad is not a subway guy, but the subways here have converted him. Most were built only 20 years ago, and they look like they were built yesterday. Boston’s subways were built 125 years ago. The cars come every 4 minutes – we walked into the station and onto a car. Because they are so new, they connect with the train and light rail systems and come into the airport terminal.

They are a dream of mass transit. There is a large bus network and a water ferry as well, all for the price of a subway ticket – $3. You can bring your dog and your bike (and presumably your cat). You don’t tap in and out like London, it’s more like Germany – everyone can buy a monthly pass very inexpensively, and day trippers buy tickets at the station or at convenience stores or on your phone (if you have a Danish phone number). Inspectors do random checks to see if riders pay, and this was our first sighting of an inspector this week.

The Metro station in Frederiksberg comes into a lovely mall with a supermarket, gorgeous bathrooms and a large display of ugly, very comfortable shoes. Yes, the nail salons were run by Vietnamese.

A light mist was falling, so we dithered in the mall and had a wonderful cardamom roll – the Dane’s best pastry – and another cup of glorious coffee. Have I mentioned how ridiculously good all of the coffee is?

Fortified, out we went to find the University garden. What a treat! Very much like the Arnold Arboretum with trees and specimen bushes from all over the world. Humor me – here is some garden porn.

Winding paths lined with roping climbers, rhododendrons of the most beautiful shades, trees that looked fake. All lovely.

The borough has paths for bikes (of course) and paths for walking through herbaceous beds in addition to the sidewalks. The homes are substantial, but close together, and there are playgrounds all over that were filled with parents and children.

We got back on the Metro and headed to Norrebro to see the famous cemetery that every Dane has told me about, Assistenskiregaden.

It was gorgeous. Huge and very wooded and well planted with graves interspersed. There are areas to picnic, walkways, benches, alleys of trees and even Hans Christian Andersen is buried there. He did write The Emperor’s New Clothes, so it’s fitting that we visited his grave given what is going on in America. I do love me a cemetery.

We had a little lunch at a chain fish place (not an inspiration), walked through the Arabic part of town and saw more barber shops and hair salons than in the whole of Massachusetts. Everyone must get their hair cut weekly.

The complexion of the residents of these outer boroughs was much more diverse than city center. It was encouraging to see such a mixture of cultures — even the restaurants were very diverse — Vietnamese, Kebab shops, Falafel stands, Greek Food, Curry joints and hot dog stands. We saw a great pop up business, bicycle cleaning.

We headed to yet another part of town, Vesterbro, where there is a community center run by the owner of our hotel. It is housed in an abandoned church, and is a free place to hang out, grab an inexpensive meal, coffee, see some entertainment, take a yoga class or make pottery. It’s called Absolon.

Fab!

We finally headed back, but made one last walk through the city, wistfully looking at our favorite sites.

The ice cream shop was open on our way back. I asked about the whipped cream…. It’s not whipped cream, it’s called Guf, and it’s homemade marshmallow fluff, in several flavors! This I discovered on my last day!

So back to our beloved apartment where we got our books and took them to the canal to sit and read in the late afternoon sun as the boats went by.

We dressed for dinner and headed out to Kanalan, it’s been there for 40 years and has a minor Michelin rating. On our way we passed this dive bar we go past every night, The Eiffel Bar. Windows blacked out, beaten up door, we always tease that we’re going to go in. The door swings open as we’re passing and a guy that looked liked a drunken Lurch from the Addams family, stumbles out. What does he do, though he can barely walk? Gets on his bike!

Kanalan was as expected – cozy, delicious, buzzy and friendly. No conversations with other diners, but a convivial atmosphere and wonderful food.

Eclectic and delicious. Ceviche, smashed cucumber salad, grilled prosciutto, potato with smoked halibut, spicy lamb and skewered beef with feta and mint. What a way to end the trip!

More from the airport tomorrow.

We are totally settled in. We know our way around, which coffee to order and are beginning to take it slow.

Sunday seems to be a family day for the Danes. Lots of bunches of flowers bought (it is not Mother’s Day in Europe), kids out on bikes, market shopping and a later start to the day – including us.

Lots of coffee to choose from!

It’s marathon day and the city was abuzz. It was fun to be part of it. Thousands of runners from all over the world were here, lots of people pushing folks in wheelchairs, lots of women and lots of running clubs.

We got our coffees and walked around the marathon route and cheered the runners on.

We were going to hop on the Metro to visit a bakery I had read about that has supposedly the best cardamom buns in the city when we were waylaid by a sidewalk sale in front of that lovely store, Magasin.

Digging in bins, Filene’s Basement style, was wonderful. I’ve sooo missed it! This was a promotion with all proceeds going to the Red Cross (just like that last markdown at Filene’s Basement where you wrote the check to charity). I got two sweaters, a blouse and two dresses for $57. My kinda shopping!

A little Sunday shopping at a street market was well in keeping with our “Living like Danes” vibe.

We decided to head to the food market for a little lunch to be eaten outdoors, like the rest of the country. Torvelhallern is a food haven. Fresh meats, fish, cheeses, fruits and vegetables of the finest quality along with a multitude of prepared food stalls and restaurants. We did the once over and made a few decisions.

Charcuterie, cheese and salads with the ubiquitous bread were the final decisions.

I even used the public bathrooms, which were unexpectedly clean. An aside, I haven’t mentioned the cleanliness here. Spotless. Everywhere. Some of it is cultural, but we watched a janitor clean up the garbage cans and bathrooms twice while we had lunch. They take it seriously. When the marathon was over, a team of garbage trucks descended upon the city.

We started to amble back across town, and saw these two chairs in the sun at the water’s edge by the library (there is public seating everywhere in this city). The Danes leisurely loll around on these benches with a glass of wine or a beer at all times of the day and night. We followed suit. We sat still for thirty minutes just watching the world go by. This is a whole new thing for us.

We stopped for a glorious Danish ice cream on the way home and when asked if we wanted whipped cream on our cone, we said no. As we were eating our luscious cones canal side, we saw people coming out with multiple flavors of what looked like mousse on top of their cones. Rookie mistake.

The day was fair, so when we got to our rooms we decided to take our books outside and read in the sunshine. We watched the world stroll by and boat by — another flotilla on a gorgeous Sunday.

Dinner tonight was once again communal style at Kanalheuset. We met a lovely German couple in the bar before dinner and they have been living in Denmark for the last two years. They are loving it. It’s more expensive than Germany, but also much more exciting and fun. He works at Norvo Nortel and in his group of 40 scientists, there are 15 countries represented. Denmark has a whole program of assimilation for immigrants and his wife is taking Danish lessons and their daughter has finally started to feel at home (she’s 16).

Dinner was at a table with an Australian endocrinologist and American who lived and taught in Taipei for the 20 years (now back in Rhode Island) and two lovely young Danes, one who works at the hotel and another who is a restauranteur. Interesting conversations about travel, healthcare, living abroad, food, and politics. Every conversation we’ve had with folks is open and thoughtful and sane. It reminded me of America before 2008. We have so lost our compass in the US and the whole world sees it.

Anyway, we’ve had a leisurely Danish Sunday and we’re settled in with a pot of tea and some quiet time. A perfect Sunday night.

Tomorrow we may head to the outer boroughs at the suggestion of our new Danish friends, Rosa and Noel. Noel’s restaurant is out in Norrebro, but he’s closed tomorrow. It is supposed to be a lovely area with a cemetery there that people picnic in. Frederksborg is not too far away where the university garden of that landscape architect we met the other night, works. We’ll see what the day brings.

I’m loving living like a Dane.

We clocked a lot of miles yesterday, so today was going to be an easy day.

We started at the local bakery for a….. Danish.

Brad was delighted. We took the Metro over to Tivoli Gardens because I refused to walk another 8 miles today.

The Metro is sparkling clean, and on time to the 1/2 minute. The Metro stop took us through the Central Train Station (impressive) and right to Tivoli Gardens. The line for entry was crazy, so we decided to walk around for a while and stumbled upon the City Hall.

16 weddings were taking place, they have pre made bouquets and rings. When we spoke to the guard, he said it’s the new Las Vegas!

Off we went to Tivoli, sure it would be a tourist trap, and boy were we surprised. Gorgeous, well staffed, fantastic flowers, lovely paths, lots of amusements, but all so tastefully done. Here’s a photo bomb of some of it.

Huge selection of eating establishments, a gorgeous hotel, all in the middle of the city. Built in the 1840’s and maniacally maintained. So worth a trip, the photos don’t do it justice. Oh, and it was gospel day, so we heard three great gospel choirs who were welcomed with much applause.

We headed across town and stumbled on the Copenhagen Museum, which was so interesting. This city has been through wars and pestilence and fire and flood, and it betters itself after every tragedy. It is a model in urban planning, an inspiration for social justice, and a beacon for peace.

There are two modern buildings we wanted to see that have a main thoroughfare built right through them – The Blox building and the Library. The Blox building has the Danish Architecture Center in it, so we started there and got an education on how design evolved in Denmark. They were really just copying Rome and France in the late 1600’s and 1700’s, but then started developing their own style. The Napoleonic Wars took place in the 1800’s, England slayed them, and what was left became a place for artists. A movement developed and Danish Design was born.

The new library is right next door and is attached to the old library. They join the new and old well.

Being Saturday, everyone was out on their boats. The canals looked like flotillas, and there must be some law about consuming liquor while boating because everyone was festively drinking.

We had a cup of tea, changed our clothes and headed over to the Opera Park, which is a massive development in the old Naval Yard. The Opera House itself is a sight to see, and the park that surrounds it is majestic. It all sits on the water, the parking is under a beautifully curated park, and the glass walkways have sod roofs, so you are protected from the elements, but are walking within nature. My photos will not do it justice – it’s majestic.

We had dinner in the atrium restaurant which feels like you’re outdoors. Food and service were stellar, sorry, no pictures.

Miso waffles with horseradish cream, tuna tartare with crisped garlic flakes, scallops with tiger milk and radishes, cod with celeriac and beurre blanc with trout roe, salad with potatoes and pine nuts and rhubarb compote with hazelnut sorbet and dark chocolate bits.

Fabulous.

We got tickets to see a ballet performance of The Great Gatsby, (celebrating its 100th year). We weren’t sure what to expect, but we were blown away. First of all, the interior of the theatre is magical, but the adaption was terrific. Music by Gershwin, dance was modern ballet, and costumes were to die for. Brilliant.

We had a nice conversation with the Danish couple next to us. I guess the show has gotten rave reviews, and the discussions have been about America going the way of Gatsby.

As we left at 10:30 on a chilly night, half of the attendees left by foot and bicycle, and most attendees were not under 50. It is an amazing culture of walking and cycling.

Our first days here, the walk to the Opera House would have seemed arduous and long. We didn’t even think about it tonight. The streets are safe (we have honestly heard two police sirens in 4 days) everyone is walking or riding, and it all just seems normal to walk a mile back from dinner.

We are both in love with not only the city, but the people and the lifestyle. They all seem sane, hard working, generous of spirit, and accepting. Social justice for all is paramount and tolerance is in their DNA. They are environmentally conscious, recycle thoughtfully, purchase things for permanence and strike a good balance of work and play. Not sure I could live here forever, but it could easily win second place.

Goodnight from Copenhagen.

We didn’t wake up thinking we do anything hip, but it just happened.

After last night’s feast, along with the breakfast and lunch that preceded it, I couldn’t think of eating but we did need coffee. We tumbled out in search of a cup and everywhere we turned, people were sitting outside enjoying the morning. The Danish love the outdoors and their bicycles – there must be 100,000 bicycles in Copenhagen. There are also some humorous shops.

Just across the canal was a boisterous place, so we trotted over. A little rail car filled with the most interesting people, candles lit all over first thing in the morning, tattoos, piercings and not a heterosexual couple in sight. It was fabulous! We sat in the sun and chatted with crowd and felt 100 years younger.

We ambled over to an exhibit that looked interesting on Greenland and the Faroe Islands. I was thinking landscapes, but it was all this multimedia imagery displayed in the most interesting space.

We finally went over to Nyhavn (the tourist area) and watched this boat turn 180 degrees and go in the opposite direction. It was the most amazing thing – he had inches to spare.

There is a Bloomingdale’s of Copenhagen and it’s called Magasin. We went in and I can assure you that I will not be adopting much Danish style. It is far too hip for me – loose dresses with ankle socks and funky flat shoes, Frilly, puffy short dresses, uber baggy pants that puddle over your shoes…

But the store had a food hall that kept me occupied for quite a while. We decided to do like the Danes and grab some lunch and eat outdoors. The vendors were tremendous, but decisions were made.

There were 6 bearnaise sauces to choose from and 3 hollandaise. It kills me.

We settled on Turkey with curry mayo and cucumber and roast beef with grilled onions and potato salad and the ubiquitous fresh pressed carrot apple ginger juice.

Then we headed into the Kunst Charlottenborg, the premier avant-garde exhibition hall. We digested pleasantly in the theatre watching a documentary on a Brazilian homeless encampment, followed by exhibits that need more advanced education than we have.

We stopped at the amber museum (fascinating) and then the Danish War museum which was extremely well put together. The museum was huge, covered 500 years of war history and was beautifully laid out. Not what we were expecting.

The last thing we had any gas left for was the Glyptoteket. It is a wonderful museum founded by Carl Jacobsen of the Carlsborg brewing fortune. (we learned in the war museum that all soldiers and sailors were given beer to drink daily — how fortunes are made!)

A lovely way to end our sightseeing.

Degas, Gaugin, Rodin and ancient Grecian and Egyptian antiquities, including two mummies!

We were approaching 16,000 steps and couldn’t look at one more beautiful thing, so we headed home and rested for a few hours. Again, Kanalhuset is a haven. Quiet neighborhood, peaceful, spacious room, and hip enough to keep the vibe going!

Dinner tonight was at a modern Nordic restaurant called No. 2. It’s the little sister to AOC, with storied chefs Christian Aoro and Soren Selin. We came into a nearly empty restaurant and thought we had made a mistake selecting this, but our very professional waiter put us at ease immediately. Drinks and the most heavenly bread (and we’ve had some great bread here) put us in a fine mood.

Brad had the pork chop and veloute of potato and morels and I had a grilled romaine and kale salad with capers and chives in a black currant dressing. We shared the smoked trout and a glass of Nebbiolo.

We were just entertaining dessert when 25 Americans from Novo Nordisk swept in. It got loud and ugly quickly, so we headed home.

Another beautiful Danish day on the books! God knows what’s in store tomorrow.

Can’t tell you what a good night’s sleep has meant. Yesterday was a full day and we were both exhausted. Last night’s dinner conversation invigorated us, and we woke up with a great appreciation for the culture here.

We saw this little bird and he seemed to want to make eye contact with us. He wasn’t afraid and he just emitted this sense of calm and joy. I think our friend Ron sent him too us. We both felt it.

Breakfast at the hotel was simple and delicious. Home made bread, exceptional Danish butter with flaky salt, some cheese, an egg and a bit of yogurt with poached fruit and granola. Every component was special. I thought of Kirsten and our breakfasts at Ottolenghi. We spoke with the manager, Lena, and just discussed so many wonderful things about Copenhagen. This place has a real soul.

The Botanical Gardens was our first stop. Lovely, but not noteworthy. We sat in the sun, had a second coffee, saw the butterfly conservatory and whiled away the morning.

We headed over to Frederickborg Palace, but needed to make a reservation so went to the next palace, Amelienborg and the changing of the guard.

The Amelienborg Palace complex is where the current King and Queen live. It is opulent and elegant, but much more reasonable in scope. You could imagine a family (a royal family) actually living in it. That said, the “museum rooms” from past monarch’s were impressive and well documented.

After traversing the city, we were getting a bit hungry and headed over to Aaman 1921 on Wendy’s recommendation for Smorebrod and Snapps. It was fantastic!

Herring, plaice, shrimp and chicken all sauced and seasoned with smooth and crunchy things. So many flavored Snapps!

Best of all, we sat next to couple from Miami by way of Vienna and Venezuela. They have both lived in Florida for over 20 years and we had a very interesting conversation on politics and history and what is discussed and what is silent. They were both more conservative, but are aghast at what is taking place. Both their children have applied for Viennese citizenship as they all clearly remember why they fled Venezuela, and want to be able to flee America if they need to. You learn so much when you engage with people.

The weather has been stellar and Brad loves being on the water, so we took a cruise around the city.

We got a great perspective being on the water and got to see the Royal Yacht. So much naval history and commerce that emanated over the water. Like the Germans, the Danes don’t side step the mistakes of their past and pointed out their colonial missteps and where the trading took place.

By this time it was 4:30, rush hour, and it was amazing to see so many cyclists going home from work. It was almost comical to my American eyes, but there are clear, large bike lanes and other pedestrian lanes, and the cars and bikes seem to coexist well.

Another nap was needed before heading out to dinner. This little apartment is so nice – we can spread out, make a cup of tea and really spend time here without feeling claustrophobic.

We took a leisurely stroll to dinner and saw so many folks gathered along the water just having a drink or dinner together – not a restaurant, folks just bring a beer, sit down and enjoy the sunset together after work.

Dinner was at a little French place with exceptional service. Food was fantastic and we struck up a conversation with the couple next to us. Everyone is so convivial here. He is a comedy writer (Netflix series, Baby Fever, Nikolaj Feifer) and she was the most beautiful landscape architect I have ever seen.

Best bit of Danish humor: Nick said that the rest of the world has always emulated and copied the United States for years, it’s now nice to the see the United States copying something from other countries: authoritarian regimes. We busted out laughing,

Gougere with truffles, white asparagus with shrimp and hollandaise, boudin blanc and entrecôte of beef with bearnaise. We will sleep tonight!

The walk home was delightful. Met a group of Senegalese young men celebrating something, a couple of boaters tying up for the night, and the quiet cobblestone streets of Copenhagen.

It is truly a comfortable place.

We settled in comfortably into our little pods on the plane. The privacy and ability to lie down was terrific, but we still didn’t get more than a few hours sleep. The plane left at 6:00 PM, so you’re not really ready for bed for a while.

We arrived in Copenhagen more than a little tired. Luckily the airport is lovely, and we navigated to the Metro easily. Five stops and we were blocks from our hotel. our room wasn’t ready (at 8:00 in the morning) so we caffeinated up and hit the road. We are staying in the absolutely picture perfect area called Christianhaven (pronounced Kristinaben) right on a lovely canal.

So what does my dear husband propose as our first order of sleep deprived business? Climbing to the top of the Church of our Savior — all 440 tiny, 17th century wooden steps! Okay, he’s the octogenarian…. Up we went, past carillons, bells, clockworks, under massive wooden beams, stepping aside on these teensy winding steps as others came down. Just before the last straight up ladder stairs, I said “Uncle”. No one needs to kill themselves on the first morning. It was a valiant effort.

We headed (stumbled really) across town and over one of the many bridges to the Parliment House or Christianborg Palace. We were both tired and thirsty and a tad cranky, but we carried on. First we explored the ruins under the palace dating back to 1100.

Then we went into the current palace, which is used for Royal events.

We really should have curled up on a park bench at this point, but we headed over to the Royal Museum of Denmark for a bit of history and context. We also had a bottle of water each, which somewhat revived us.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped for lunch at a spot my sister, LaLa, told me about, The 1733. We sat in the sun, Brad had his first Danish beer, I ate my first white asparagus of the trip and we watched the Danes on their lunch hour stroll by.

Kanalheust, our hotel, is a funky establishment that my friend, Wendy, told me about. It is a converted 1735 navy barracks that has apartments and knitting hours, and early morning singing and swimming in the canal. They serve communal dinners and have a young hip staff of mostly women. It’s fabulous!

The apartment is large and full of windows and Miele appliances and a washer dryer. The bed is lovely and shower is powerful. We both tumbled into bed and slept for a few hours.

We had dinner in the communal dining room and met 4 Danes, 2 bicyclers from Portland Oregon, a German and a Brit who now lives here. The dinner is served family style and the point is to get to know other people. We had a great group. Dinner was monkfish in a Moroccan sauce. Polenta with pickled fennel, grilled zucchini, green salad and homemade rustic bread with a broad bean dip. Excellent and inexpensive!

We talked about our lives, about politics, about culture and about what a fabulous place this restaurant is. The hotel and restaurant are owned by a wealthy Danish family that is promoting people getting to know one another. They make the meals inexpensive to get the locals and tourist to both come and mingle. It was charming, informative and delicious. We will be eating more meals here!

Energized by our nap and the pithy conversation, we took a sunset stroll after dinner. The city has canals everywhere and they are full of boats. Brad was in heaven. I’ll leave you with some lovely pictures as I trot off to bed. 15,000 steps and 350 stairs, not a bad day.

I woke up early thinking of a million things, but first and foremost was gratitude. My husband and I are healthy and able. My sisters are all doing well. The kids are thriving and the grandchildren get better every year. We live in Oz, have the best circle of friends, and I am oh so grateful.

And we’re going to Copenhagen!

This trip is a casual one. The Danish frown upon extravagance. We’ve decided to dress accordingly and packed only carry on suitcases. 2 pants, 3 sweaters, turtlenecks a pair of shoes and what we’re wearing.

When I bought the tickets, I did it quickly because there was a $500 round trip special. First class was $7000. We decided that we could sit on a nail for the $13,000 swing for the two of us.

But that was months ago. The idea of sitting in the back of the plane for 7 hours (on an overnight flight) started to get me. SAS has a unique upgrade policy- you can bid on a first class seat. I bit. The bidding started at $600 per person and there were numerous seats available. I threw my hat into the ring, and we won! So, Hastens lie flat beds with Dux linens and a three course meal served by a chef from a trolley, here we come!

We got to Logan early and checked into the new Delta lounge. Fantastic! Even the bathrooms are terrific.

I am now headed to the bar for a pre flight Negroni and some aperitivi. And so we begin!

First of all, how to pronounce it. I thought I was being very continental pronouncing it Copenhaaagan. Turns out I was just being foolish, once again. My dear friend, Ed Kosner, corrected me, and I scoffed. I should know better – Ed is a storied newspaper editor and doesn’t speak unless he he’s fact checked the story – ever.

It is pronounced the way we grew up pronouncing it – Copenhagen (long A).

In February Brad said he’d like to go to Copenhagen. We had never discussed it before, but I immediately booked tickets – like that afternoon. Life is short. We are both healthy and mobile. If not now, when?

We haven’t given the trip all that much thought. We have a lovely Danish friend, Lisa Poling, who schooled me the delights of Denmark, I called my favorite travel epicurean, Wendy Frolich, who sent me a hotel and some restaurants, and off we go. We bought two guide books which have languished by the bedside, I’ve subscribed to a few Instagram sites, but honestly, we’re just going. No big agenda, no detailed planning, just a vacation. We’re trying something new.

We haven’t begun to pack, not even laid out clothes. It seems like a casual place with comfortable shoes, so I’m going with it. No Noma or Geranium reservations, no driver guide, no side trips into Sweden, no golf, just 6 nights in Copenhagen. I have started to look up spas…..

Today we will decide what to bring and make a list of potential restaurants. End. Talk to you from Logan tomorrow.

No sleep last night as I worried about not getting up early enough – would there be a taxi, should I schedule an Uber…. At 4:30 I got out of bed and got dressed. Kirsten was the same. We had plenty of time, so we did what we do best – the Tube.

Heathrow Express is a gift. 15 minutes into the terminal proper.

I realized far too late that the only other time I had departed from Heathrow, was on Virgin Upper Class, where you are whisked into the Clubhouse, with personal security, and escorted on the plane without ever seeing another passenger. I strongly recommend this. Strongly.

Heathrow is a madhouse. Gatwick I civilized. If you’re not going Virgin Upper, fly thru Gatwick.

The lines for a simple coffee were extreme. The Priority Pass Lounges all full. The walk to the gate was 20 minutes. And, excruciatingly, I forgot to even check for the Centurion Lounge! That would have been bliss. Alas, we made it home.

So, how was London? London is amazing. A world class city filled with old and new, crazy and calm, lots of different people and experiences. Marleybone to Camden are two different worlds. Canary Wharf to Chelsea are two different countries, so many museums, so many gardens and parks, so much architecture, and so many different people. London accepts all and amalgamates all. It is a city, so it’s the best of everything, I realize, but wow. You can understand why this little island ruled the world.

I don’t know much about their current situation politically, but my meager knowledge suggests there is much to be desired. However, a month in London, blindly uninformed, would be heaven.

We stayed in adequate quarters in the best area. We tumbled out to beauty and inspiration every morning. The park across the street is calming and awe inspiring (no one does landscape like the British), the church we saw as we turned the corner was centering, the Marleybone High Street was luxurious and familiar (so Beacon Hill), and all the food was presented and delivered as beautifully as anywhere in Italy.

I’ve always thought you should travel to different places, but what is wrong to going to places that you love? I’m so very comfortable there. It makes me happy to see all shades and types of people speaking in different languages and interacting. There is very little British pomposity left – only good manners and a lilting accent that makes everything more posh.

I only experienced the affluent areas, but truth be told, I only experience the affluent areas here. I am privileged and lucky. Full stop.

I plan to go back. I want to see the lesser museums, John Sloan, Dennis Seaver, Aspley House….. I want to travel a bit further afield into Islington and Portobello Road and more of Camden. I want to eat more ethnic food, I want to buy the beautiful fish from the fishmonger and cook it in my lovely apartment in Marleybone. I want to talk to each and every vendor at the Farmer’s Market and buy cheese and veg and make a feast. I want to tumble onto the side streets and have a drink at the bar at Durrants and make friends with bar tender. I want to read a book that I bought at Daunt’s in Regent’s Park. I want to pretend I live there in rarified space.

I still want to go to Sicily in May and buy food at the gorgeous market in Siracusa and watch the Greek plays in the archeological Amphitheatre. Having my morning cappuccino at Cafe Sicilia in Noto, is a dream. I want to go back to L’Alberetta in Franciacorta and be pummeled and pampered. Hiking in the Val Gardena and coming home to the Benessere, before heading out for a spritz and patatine sounds marvy. I’d like to see Morroco. I want to go to Istanbul. Trieste looms large. The Côte d’Azur would be magical. A week in Copenhagen sounds divine. And then there is Venice and Verona. But I’d like to fly through London and stop there first.

So, fly thru Gatwick if you’re on the cheap, and take Virgin Upper through Heathrow if your budget allows. Stay in the nicest area – nothing like looking forward to walking home.

See you next time.

Okay, so we didn’t see all of them, but we made a good dent. This girl is looking forward to a six hour plane ride tomorrow! We walked about 32 miles on our 4 day jaunt, and enjoyed every minute of it.

We began at Ottolenghi again. We stayed tried and true this morning with leek and feta danish for me and yogurt with passion fruit, poached berries and granola for Kirsten. It is such a joyous way to begin the day.

It was the Marleybone Farmers Market today. I think I took 26 pictures of the most gorgeous food stalls – every bit as luscious as Italy, and I don’t say that lightly.

This cinches it. I could live here. Food, history, culture, a diverse population, and that lovely accent.

We were excited to see Paul and Abi’s place, so we headed to Canary Wharf. Like a different city altogether! New, hip, green and FULL of shops and restaurants. Underground shopping malls and lovely parks and canals above.

Their apartment is adorable, a studio with a loft in an older revitalized building that now has a pool and sauna in the complex. It sits right on the Thames at the sight of the launch of Isambard Kingdom Brunnel’s Great Eastern Ship (I can’t help it, he’s my favorite).

We went for Sunday Roast at Blacklock – divine!

We toured the neighborhood and headed for a boat ride.

We stopped at Battersea, walked across the bridge into Chelsea, up into Knightsbridge, Belgravia and ended in Kensington for a Tube ride home. We poked into shops, found an old apartment we’d stayed in years ago and enjoyed the quiet residential streets.

We decided to head home early and we split off with Paul at the Tube station. We took one last trot down the Marleybone High Street.

We’re retiring early as we have a morning flight tomorrow. We packed a lot into this trip, and it was a perfect 4 days. The carry on bag served us well – we were well dressed enough for any occasion, comfortable enough to walk 8 miles a day, and warm enough to be outside. We toured and visited and explored and enjoyed.

Why don’t we do this more often? Kim, you’re right – just go! Fancy dinners and theatre shows are great, but just tooling around is fun too.

Oh, and can someone please tell me why there are so many tropical plants in London?