Civilized Cross Many Countries

Truly let the games begin. Jeff and family flew from LA to JFK and met Kirsten and the boys and they all flew to Glasgow, picked up cars and made their way to the Estate. No one slept much, but they arrived in good spirits!

We made the most out of the day, exploring the house,

walking the grounds, driving endlessly in circles looking for a golf practice range before heading to Lime Tree Larder for a chocolate lesson and tasting.We decided to have dinner at home to ease the jet lag and just hang around the grounds. Lovely day, relaxing evening, long bath. Can’t wait for tomorrow!

Good long day. We woke up in our European sized room (Brad calls it, excuse me, pardon me, room) and made for a quick breakfast before a Scotch whiskey tasting. When in Rome!Our guide at the Oban distillery was very precise, and we learned a lot. Like Oban is part of a huge conglomerate (Diageo), and that they buy their barley “mostly” from Scotland, and they make a sweeter version for the American market. Not as quaint as a small distillery from 1792. Just another link in the chain. Still it was great to see.

Alan picked us up in the beautiful port side village of Oban and drove us to the airport to pick up our rental car. We chatted about life, took in Loch Lomand and arrived in time to get our left sided driving vehicle. We found our way to the Estate and were ridiculously delighted.

Dropped the bags and headed out to the food store to provision the house. By the time we got home, we were toast. We also realized that we hadn’t eaten all day, so we promptly made a drink!Drinks on the lawn, with a cheese plate to follow and a walk on the grounds amid the cotton tail bunnies. We are nestled into our baronial bedroom with crisp Italian linens and the kids on the way. Tomorrow should be epic, but tonight we sleep in peace.

Coming into Oban has been delightful, but the difference between Skye and Oban is dramatic. Lovely here, and great walking about a city and being stimulated by many things, but it only shows how mystical Skye was. The vastness of it. The lack of “things”. The ghosts of the past that lurk in every abandoned Croft. The majesty of the sky and sea.

And the people we met. Steve, who goes to Romania annually to help the Roma children, Ali and Shaz who have created a slice of heaven in the old Croft on the water, Stuart, our race car driver whose family runs boat tours to a land locked loch between the mountains. They are unique people in a unique place who gave us a magical time we hold in our hearts forever.

Here are some photos Steve took (did we mention that he’s a photographer and web designer also?)

We got on our much anticipated and long reserved Jacobite Steam train. It was a total snooze. You win some, you lose some.We were picked up by Phillipe once again from Elecar, and had a lovely drive and chat along with a pit stop to see a lovely little castle.We checked into civilization. Oban is a busy port town, and the hotel is like a Kimpton. We were delighted to find a “lift”!We took in the shore, then walked up 20 flights of outdoor steps (if Apple Health tracker is right), to McCaig’s Tower. It’s an abandoned coliseum structure that has views of the harbor and outer islands. This port town always has so much beauty.

We found a little local’s pub and had our first fish and chips and ale. Chatted with the bartender (a delightful Glaswegian) and walked home in the lovely sunshine at 9:00 PM.Gotta love Scotland.

We woke up after fitful sleep in our stone house at the end of the world. Had a fabulous breakfast of vegetarian haggis (think Scottish falafel) and fresh hen’s eggs. We said our goodbyes and headed to the ferry.Slight glitch in the plans. Our ferry was cancelled, and we needed to get to Maillag to catch the Jacobite steam train. Stewart picked us up this morning, and being a native Skyunch, told us he’d try to get us to the earlier ferry if we were game. Off we went race car style on single track roads.

We were the last two on (they opened the gate for us). Maillag is a lovely fishing village that we now had time to explore.Lots of history and gorgeous plant life (with the requisite foxglove everywhere). Take a look at the green leaves — big as an arm chair!

And we are happily settled into the train with 200 Harry Potter fans!

The day started sheepishly — literally. Our first stop was Skye Sheepskins. They take the skin of slaughtered meat sheep and make the most luxurious rugs and throws we’ve ever seen. They do everything by hand, which takes weeks. They “tan” the hides in a tanin bark tea, wash and dry and comb them. Fascinating, and smelled like my Lebanese grandmother’s house! Off to a bit more exploring before an exquisite lunch.Three Chimneys is internationally known and didn’t disappoint! A hike was necessary after that lunch, so we went to see the lighthouse at Neist Point.Another late evening walk from our gorgeous stone house, and an early evening with wine and British TV while we watch the sea. Oh, and another fabulous bath. My mind is free and my soul is soaring. Skye is a mystical place.

Our last full day on this enchanted island. So much beauty here in a rugged, natural way. It takes you to an almost primitive place in your soul.

Did I mention the Highland cattle? We ran into a few on the road, and they seem to be the mascot of Skye. Steve’s son has a pottery shop that specializes in these beasts and we’ve brought a few home (in the form of mugs)

There are bunnies galore, tall flowering grasses everywhere and an expanse of view that give you feeling of limitless possibilities.

Been on the Waternish Penninsula for 2 days with spotty cell service. Hopefully pictures are loaded, if not, talk to you on Saturday!

We wanted to see the real Scotland, so we booked two nights at what looked like an authentic Croft home, beautifully renovated up at the very top of Skye. This was our own stone cottage by the sea at the end of the world (think Post Ranch Inn with a Scottish vibe).

Steve had never been there, and the drive out was long and remote on a one track road — ocean on one side, small rural homes on the other and many, many sheep. The music heightens. Will this be the Bates motel? Have I made a terrible error???

And then we arrive. A perfectly renovated stone structure from the 16th century with a sod roof growing wildflowers. Gorgeous hens greeted us in a lush green yard, followed by our host, Ali Morton.

Amazing. I mean amazing. Ali renovated the buildings on property by himself over three years. They are filled with natural, organic fibers, elegant furnishings and the attention to detail is spectacular. The beds are like clouds, the vistas are forever, and the tub….. Continue reading “Mint Croft”

Alright, so I’m always skeptical about Michelin stars. Ali had suggested we eat at Loch Bay, so we made a reservation months ago and the only time we could get was 8:45. I didn’t want to leave Mint Croft. I thought of cancelling and eating chocolate in bed…. Alas we went.

A lovely, gentlemanly Algierian taxi driver picked us up and drove us down to the village of Stein at the water’s edge. We darted about the bunnies, chatted about Scotland and arrived at a small, unassuming building with a lovely garden and a palm tree. A tiny spot revealed itself as we opened the door. We were warmly greeted, immediately seated and felt at ease. Lovely locally made gin cocktails enhanced our mood and loosened our tongues and we struck up conversations with the British couple nearby and the French family with two small children that ate the 3 course menu with relish and silence. Loved them.

We started with complimentary fried herring bits with the most perfect rouille I have ever tasted. It was a fantastic combination. We migrated to duck confit, saffron panisse, then onto Scottish beef and fresh hake, followed by hazelnut dacquoisse and the most unbelievable strawberry sorbet with champagne jelly.

One of my best meals ever, in this tiny village at the end of the world.Then a lovely drive back to our aerie just as the sun was setting at 11 PM.if you never hear from me again, you’ll know where to find me.