Author: leanagallagher

We woke up after fitful sleep in our stone house at the end of the world. Had a fabulous breakfast of vegetarian haggis (think Scottish falafel) and fresh hen’s eggs. We said our goodbyes and headed to the ferry.Slight glitch in the plans. Our ferry was cancelled, and we needed to get to Maillag to catch the Jacobite steam train. Stewart picked us up this morning, and being a native Skyunch, told us he’d try to get us to the earlier ferry if we were game. Off we went race car style on single track roads.

We were the last two on (they opened the gate for us). Maillag is a lovely fishing village that we now had time to explore.Lots of history and gorgeous plant life (with the requisite foxglove everywhere). Take a look at the green leaves — big as an arm chair!

And we are happily settled into the train with 200 Harry Potter fans!

The day started sheepishly — literally. Our first stop was Skye Sheepskins. They take the skin of slaughtered meat sheep and make the most luxurious rugs and throws we’ve ever seen. They do everything by hand, which takes weeks. They “tan” the hides in a tanin bark tea, wash and dry and comb them. Fascinating, and smelled like my Lebanese grandmother’s house! Off to a bit more exploring before an exquisite lunch.Three Chimneys is internationally known and didn’t disappoint! A hike was necessary after that lunch, so we went to see the lighthouse at Neist Point.Another late evening walk from our gorgeous stone house, and an early evening with wine and British TV while we watch the sea. Oh, and another fabulous bath. My mind is free and my soul is soaring. Skye is a mystical place.

Our last full day on this enchanted island. So much beauty here in a rugged, natural way. It takes you to an almost primitive place in your soul.

Did I mention the Highland cattle? We ran into a few on the road, and they seem to be the mascot of Skye. Steve’s son has a pottery shop that specializes in these beasts and we’ve brought a few home (in the form of mugs)

There are bunnies galore, tall flowering grasses everywhere and an expanse of view that give you feeling of limitless possibilities.

Been on the Waternish Penninsula for 2 days with spotty cell service. Hopefully pictures are loaded, if not, talk to you on Saturday!

We wanted to see the real Scotland, so we booked two nights at what looked like an authentic Croft home, beautifully renovated up at the very top of Skye. This was our own stone cottage by the sea at the end of the world (think Post Ranch Inn with a Scottish vibe).

Steve had never been there, and the drive out was long and remote on a one track road — ocean on one side, small rural homes on the other and many, many sheep. The music heightens. Will this be the Bates motel? Have I made a terrible error???

And then we arrive. A perfectly renovated stone structure from the 16th century with a sod roof growing wildflowers. Gorgeous hens greeted us in a lush green yard, followed by our host, Ali Morton.

Amazing. I mean amazing. Ali renovated the buildings on property by himself over three years. They are filled with natural, organic fibers, elegant furnishings and the attention to detail is spectacular. The beds are like clouds, the vistas are forever, and the tub….. Continue reading “Mint Croft”

Alright, so I’m always skeptical about Michelin stars. Ali had suggested we eat at Loch Bay, so we made a reservation months ago and the only time we could get was 8:45. I didn’t want to leave Mint Croft. I thought of cancelling and eating chocolate in bed…. Alas we went.

A lovely, gentlemanly Algierian taxi driver picked us up and drove us down to the village of Stein at the water’s edge. We darted about the bunnies, chatted about Scotland and arrived at a small, unassuming building with a lovely garden and a palm tree. A tiny spot revealed itself as we opened the door. We were warmly greeted, immediately seated and felt at ease. Lovely locally made gin cocktails enhanced our mood and loosened our tongues and we struck up conversations with the British couple nearby and the French family with two small children that ate the 3 course menu with relish and silence. Loved them.

We started with complimentary fried herring bits with the most perfect rouille I have ever tasted. It was a fantastic combination. We migrated to duck confit, saffron panisse, then onto Scottish beef and fresh hake, followed by hazelnut dacquoisse and the most unbelievable strawberry sorbet with champagne jelly.

One of my best meals ever, in this tiny village at the end of the world.Then a lovely drive back to our aerie just as the sun was setting at 11 PM.if you never hear from me again, you’ll know where to find me.

We woke up to a drizzly, foggy morning and took an early walk around Lady Claire’s estate (Kinloch Lodge). It was like living in a fairy tale. After a walk we had another wonderful bowl of porridge (no whisky, but nutmeg!). Our great driver/guide, Steve picked us up for a day of adventures and the skies cleared. We stopped at the Clan MacDonald estate, museum and gardens and were entranced by the history and grounds.Here is Brad and Steve in front of the castle ruins in Armadale. We headed off the tourist trail to a lovely rocky beach in Ord. Like a painting. We had a bit of lunch then headed through Portree (the main city on Skye) and over to a burial ground up island where the locals left for the Carolinas in the 1700’s.

So much history and so much beauty.

We started the day with Irish porridge laced with whiskey. A real kickstarter! After breakfast I took a brief walk around and found my first Scottish cat. Not particularly friendly, but neither is the Scottish version of the ADA. We both burst out laughing — handicapped parking right in front of two flights of stairs!

Our new driver, Steve, a former police captain, picked us up and regaled us with stories, history and verdant vistas. We stopped at a little restaurant that specializes in hot smoked Scottish salmon (all ocean farm raised, by the way) and I met my second Scottish cat who resides there. Mitzi is one smart feline. As we traversed the Applecross Road on our way to Skye, a heard of Scottish cattle stopped us for a bit. We made it to Kinloch Lodge, home of Lord and Lady MacDonald. The Lodge has seen better days, but is still a lovely Inn if you like patina. The dining is the real reason to stay in this lovely remote location. Five course fantastic meal with great wine and peaty water. It was a delightfully refined meal until a group of 12 loud Americans showed up. It always reminds me how loud and confident and bullish we are. I’m first on the list of this, but when we see ourselves compared to the British, we are garrulous and gross. I need to keep this in mind — speak in a whisper, be exceedingly polite, and realize you are the foreigner here. I’ll let you know how I do.

I did take that peat water bath. Let’s see if it will rinse some Scottish manners into me.

10:19 PM and still daylight out. Oh, and I’m getting another chalazion cyst on my eye. Hope the peat water cures that too!

A little place down the street, The Lime Tree. An art museum and restaurant and an Inn. Unassuming, filled with Eastern European help and bright smiles. Chatted with the Brit’s next to us, father and daughter from Surrey– she was wearing Chuck Taylor’s, a reminder of home.

Food was wonderful, pacing slow, we have to get used to European long dinners. Everything excellent — not your grandmother’s Scotland. Bread and butter here is sublime!

Our destination was Crohlinnhe Inn in Fort William. Sofie welcomed us with open arms and a beautiful room high above Loch Linnhe.

We took a walk up the High Road to see the sights. The flowers were as amazing as I remembered them.

We took in a museum, some churches and the visitor center. I’ve always wondered what “Alba” means on the Scottish tourism website. It means Scotland in Gaelic!

Guess where we did not stop?

Brad is loving Scotland — he always feels so connected here (even though he is currently snoring through this post). Press the arrow in the photo below for s treat. We got to the train station just as the Jacobite Steam train was pulling out.

And finally, a cuppa in our room.

We clocked 3.5 miles, and still have another mile tonight for dinner. Not bad after a transatlantic flight. No wonder Brad is napping!