Author: leanagallagher

We’re getting ready to travel again. Checking the weather, packing, unpacking, repacking, forgetting something, remembering something. Picturing myself there, picking out a belt, changing my shoes (again). The waiting is the hardest part.

And then there are the documents. The passport, the vaccination card, Global Entry Pass, VeriFLY, STEP, Reservation vouchers, tickets, Priority Pass, credit cards, foreign currency, itinerary, passwords…….

Did I water the plants, remember to take out the trash, leave instructions for the cat, pack everything that I need? How much do I need? Am I going to an uninhabited island? There will be stores, right? But what if it’s cold? What if it’s hot? What if I can’t find…….

I’m going back for a second pass at the packing. I’m double checking the documents. I’m gonna read the travel journals one more time and check my notes. I will have an argument with Brad for sure because I am frustrated and anxious and nervous and not delighted yet. But I will be delighted shortly, once I get everything done!

What has it been, two weeks now since we got home?

I’ve settled in comfortably on Amelia Island. The weather is unseasonably fabulous, the condo in fine shape (thanks to my dear friend, Jean), and Brad and I are trying to develop some new patterns to our lives.

We both realize that the last year took a huge toll on us, and that we need to be purposeful about our lives going forward. We are depleted, and Italy surely fed us and put us on a path to health and rejuvenation, but it’s a walk we need to thoughtfully do every day.

It’s Sunday morning here, and I just read the Times, and it’s my normal time to call Chaz and discuss what’s in the paper, but also what has happened to us in this last week and what we are planning to do. But I can’t do that today, or ever again. She’ll never be able to put things in perspective for me again, and I’ll never be able to help her plan a dinner party. She’ll never be curling her hair with me on the speakerphone again, and I’ll never be cooking while talking to her. It doesn’t sound like a lot, but it’s what I’ll miss most, those silly patterns, and small touches that were always part of my life. It is so painful. Just so very, very painful. And final.

What does this have to do with a travel blog? Travel takes us places, but it also should show us new things and change us. We should learn from our experiences and adopt the best. Italy showed me that life is not all about accomplishing things, but sometimes just about enjoying them. The perfect cappuccino, served is a beautiful cup, by a gracious waiter with a lovely note.

Maybe just sitting here this morning, enjoying the view with Grouper by my side should count as a morning activity. It’s beautiful out, and low tide, should I race out for a walk to capture it, or should I sit here and ponder my thoughts and count the blessings I do have rather than what I’ve lost? Can I remember to savor the food with all my senses? Can I be more present in this moment rather than racing to plan the next event? Can I let the things I can’t change go, and embrace the good right in front of me?

This trip was definitely dedicated to Chazy on so many levels, and I really want to make it count. For all of Chazy’s seriousness and ambition, there was also a very lackadaisical way in which she allowed things to happen or just unfold. She had a gentle spirit (at times :)), and seemed to take the long view in stride. Italy is like that. I need to focus more on enjoying what I have and taking the time to savor things. Dear God, is Dotty right again?!?

Back to the travel portion…..

Remember to always book the best hotel you can afford. Coming home to our gorgeous suites every day left us feeling pampered and coddled, just what a vacation is supposed to do.

Get outside and walk. The brisk January air was invigorating and the space around us gave us a peaceful spirit.

Don’t pack too much — no one likes schlepping heavy bags and unpacking is a drag. You can always buy something.

Change planes before you are jet lagged. Changing in JFK and traveling directly to Milano is the way to go. JFK is a miserable, huge airport, but we were not exhausted, and we spoke the language. Changing in Roma while jet lagged would have been brutal.

Don’t be afraid to sleep. If you’re tired, take a nap. Italy will be there. What you missed on this trip because you were relaxing in your room, will be there the next time you go.

And most importantly, go! If you liked the place, go back! Stupid rule of no “do overs”. Go as many times as you’d like. We all have places that resonate with us, enjoy them. Find cheap flights and make it happen.

You never know what is around the corner. Live every day and be happy with it. Savor it all. Chazy would tell you that.

The last bathtub of perfectly creamy, frothy cappuccino. It’ll be back to Dunkin’ tomorrow. It has been great making believe I’m a Marchessa. I’ve been so obsessed with the characters AT breakfast, I never showed you breakfast — so elegant.

Coffee in paper cups are gonna be a hard landing.

One last walk through the city and a pass through the supermarket once more.

Andiamo l’aeroporto! Nothing like eating at an Italian airport — no bad choices.

So much better than a pre wrapped turkey sandwich. And the view from Malpensa!

I’m totally satisfied with Emirates, but I don’t get what the buzz is about. We paid $400 round trip, so I have zero complaints, but the food was horrible, the seats did not seem especially generous, and the service was fair, with a half full plane. Maybe I just fly JetBlue too much.

Just a little reality check — the lady next to me claiming luggage was obviously Milanese, and I am obviously American.

Anyway, Global Entry was a breeze, and the TWA hotel is a gift to re entry. Gorgeous, easy, wonderful restaurant, heavenly beds. A great way to re acclimate. I know, I know, I’m not an astronaut, just a vacation traveler…. But still, a soft landing is always nice.

And so my friends, I head out to T5 at JFK to be jostled and hustled and yelled at. I’ll be in Amelia by noon and snuggling my cat, and like the chameleon that I am, I will love every second. Hopefully I will bring back some lovely habits.

The Epilogue will happen, but I need a bit of time to digest. See you on the next adventure!

So our last full day in Italy was spent with dear friends, Cathryn and Lorenzo Minoli. Cath and have been friends for 40 years this month. We didn’t plan our 40th reunion, it just happened, like our friendship.

Chazy’s death has left a great hole in my life and my heart. This trip was set up as a first step toward healing that loss and pain, and having Cathryn (and Lorenzo) back in my life again so fully has truly filled me in a way I didn’t think possible. I am so lucky to have both Cathryn and my other dear friend, Marie, so steadfastly by me. It’ll never fill the void of my big sister, but it really has begun to give me joy again.

So, the morning was less eventful than yesterday. Just your average coddled egg, mortadella and artichoke, grapefruit salad and a double cappuccino. A Kim Kardashian look like with bad table manners, a few poorly dressed Russians and the odd, loud, offensive Brazilians rounded out the breakfast crowd.

Totally gorgeous day today — Spring was in the air.

We walked across town past La Scala and through the Brera district over to Castello Sforzesco. We read all about the Sforzas last night, so it we were ready to live the history.

The Fortress is huge, and it is now filled with different museums and collections and gardens. We spent about three hours there and didn’t scratch the surface. Just cleaning the place must cost a small fortune — there is no way to give you an accurate sense of scale.

The Leonardo da Vinci exhibit was a multimedia wonder. He lived in Milano during the building of the fortress and the Duomo and was an architect for both in small areas. He also shares a birthday with me!

Here is a sample of a few different collections:

Lorenzo took us to a fabulous place in Brera, and we were treated like visiting royalty. As only the Italians can do, we were greeted, and fawned over and escorted through 4 rooms into a quiet back room for dignitaries. Out came the onslaught of items not on the menu, but available for special guests.

The best thing we’re these fried fresh anchovies. I know, it doesn’t sound swoon worthy, but my God!

And then there was the traditional coteletta!

We walked and talked and popped into the most beautiful stores with the most wonderful things.

And then Lorenzo and Brad had a near miss in wild traffic.

We parted ways to both head home, but vowed to make the time and effort to see each other again.

As we walked back to the hotel in the soft warm night air we stumbled upon the Officine Gullo showroom and I began to swoon….

That’s what I’d like to bring back from Milano!

We made it back to our luxurious hotel and stopped downstairs for a swanky drink. Ed and Julie would have loved this.

We chatted about the trip, about our privileged life, about our future. What a lovely end to a perfect trip. I’m getting ready for my nightly amaretti and lavender chamomile spray. Sogni belli

A perfect misty Milan day. Was it the Lavender Camomile spray, the million count sheets, the ridiculously soft bed, or does Milan just suit us? We had a perfect rest and woke up ready for the day.

We bathed and showered and spritzed ourselves with Acqua di Parma and headed downstairs for breakfast. We’re not in Kansas anymore, ToTo…. The snooty concierge from the day before had nothing on the pompous maitre’d. Instead of the kind and gracious welcome we received at L’Alberta and Grodernhof, there was the rustling of papers, much discussion with the staff, and an eventual table with a hasty explanation of the menu. But what a menu: Just the thought of duck foie gras with raisin bread or linguine with lobster was enough to warm me to the place. And then the show began! So the Principe attracts a distinct crowd. It’s sort of the Sherry Netherland of Milan. There was woman of a certain age with the dark glasses and small bandage on her nose ordering a very complicated macchiato in a special glass, the long blonde locked musician in the pale pin striped grey slender cashmere suit with the pocket watch with his older wife and bulldog, the swept back grey haired professore with his petite blonde “niece”, the British businessmen in the loud blue suits with very short pants, and best of all, the tall, portly elderly Italian with the poorly dyed hair ordering the waitstaff around and setting up his circa 1998 laptop for his normal morning routine –he’s probably a resident of the hotel. I’d love to know all their stories.

Allora, and so the day began. The Milanese love their pups!

We walked the city, saw the Galleria, the beautiful gardens and parks, the cafes and then the Duomo. So much beauty. The details are overwhelming.

And done in the 1500’s. How did they figure it all out? How did they know it could bear this weight without sinking? It’s almost too much to take in.

My dearest Cathryn met us again and we had a long leisurely lunch together and just enjoyed each other — time stands still. How lucky we are to have found each other 40 years ago? We still dress alike, think the same things, and finish each other’s sentences and we haven’t seen each other in like three years. A visit with her always inspires me, and this time is no different.

We saw a great Van Clef and Arpels exhibit at the Palazzo Reale as well, and then we all headed home.

Brad and I went out for a stroll, and of course I had to check out the food stores. MaMa Mia, the quality of the food is overwhelming. Definitely renting an apartment so I can cook the next time, and, of course, checked out U.S. Customs regulations on what I can bring back. I leave you with my food porn photos….

Look at the way they tip the end of each pear:

And for you, Marcia:

My vegetarian friends can stop here.

Oh, and at the Duomo, we lit a candle for Chazy.

I’m going to spray my lavender now. See you tomorrow.

We left the relaxing alps for the bustling city of Milano, but not before our last ridiculous breakfast.

Yes, every morning fresh orange juice and prosciutto. We got into the car and hit the winding mountain roads before the autostrada.

Of course at least one stop, and here’s the menu at the gas station — yes, the gas station.

We navigated the city and found the rental car drop off and checked into the Principe di Savoia. Wow.

The marquetry, the elegance, the formal culture is everything I dreamed it would be. They even make a bunch of alstroemerias (the cheap workhouse of every supermarket floral bouquet), look gorgeous.

The concierge team was sufficiently snooty, so you know you’re at a very special hotel. They were highly offended when I balked at the $200 cost of a car service to the airport for our departure a few days from now (considering the round trip flight was $400, it seemed a bit silly). Yet, they still managed to get me a fabulous massage at the health club here, with the phenomenal TiTi. It was almost Rolfing, but I signed up for another session.

We took a lovely walk to look at all the gorgeous architecture in this city. We didn’t take many photos, but it was a great mix of new and old.

Being Milano, there are many beautifully dressed people, but none better than this chihuahua. This is for you Dotty. I promise to buy these fur collared jackets if I can find them!

We returned to our glamorous hotel to be greeted by this lovely amenity:

The Italian flag in olives, cheese and tomatoes — with wine and taralli. Followed by an evening gift of Lavender and Camomile spray for the pillows of our luxurious bed.

Grouper would approve of this bed. Until tomorrow.

So we’re obviously not missing anything at either house. The weather in the mountains has been really mild. We woke to a slight dusting of snow, and then cloudy skies. We planned to take the cable car up to the plateau and go for a long walk and a toboggan ride part way down, but it was so cloudy we opted to walk the old rail trail instead.We stopped at huts, listened to the church bells, and followed the old route from Ortisei to Santa Christina. It was a truly leisurely walk of about 3 hours with the locals. Babies and dogs and not an English speaker among them. Have I mentioned that we haven’t met or heard one American since we landed? Confirmation of a trip well planned — we are truly away.

We walked through some neighborhoods on the way back and Brad got to ogle all the perfectly stacked wood at every house, the gorgeous carvings and the ancient wood cribs. Brad is dying to get his hands on some of the old maple and Swiss pine.

Cool sign, right?

If you could smell this place, you’d be in heaven! Cured meats, fresh baked strudel, puffy pizza….. sensory overload.

We headed back to our hotel and just decided to have a down afternoon. A little pasta carbonara, a little reading, and a steam and jacuzzi. Perfect lazy Sunday afternoon.

We headed out to our favorite outdoor bar for a little wine. They give you blankets and hot water bottles to keep you warm. I just ordered 4 of them for Amelia — we gotta try it at home! Our last walk around town at night, and we caught the evening service at St. Ulrich. Beautiful, and like time travel. Smoke from all the chimneys, choir singing, church bells ringing….. And then onto our final dinner. Exquisite as usual.

Every course brings more fresh silverware. We must use 8 sets a meal between cheese, fruit and dinner and dessert. What a way to live.

On to Milano in the morning. I’ve really enjoyed this Austrian/Italian village, and we felt very much at home here. I understand why people come back to the Grodnerhof every year — we might become one of them.

So we’re clearly living large.

We slept late again and decided to rent skis and go cross country skiing in a mountain bowl. The ski rentals are within the hotel and the car was in the garage 5 feet away, and the Wilhelm, who fit us, was easy on the eyes. Good start.

We drove further in the valley to Selva di Val Gardena where the signs are in German first, Italian second. Of course we made a rookie mistake and turned too quickly and ended in the Carabinieri’s training camp, which was a two way, one track road. After some gnashing of teeth, we made an unglamorous U Turn and found our way to the parking lot to be greeted by a circle of majestic mountains.

Brad is always so patient with me. I’m a terrible skier, with no balance at all, but I do love it. I only fell twice. :). Then of course we stopped for Brad’s daily strudel and a look around the famous woodworkers shops.

They explained how they start with a block of wood, have a machine carve a basic shape, and then begin the two week process of carving, followed by painting.

We enjoyed meeting these craftsmen and and it gave Ampy some good ideas for his projects this summer. Be on the lookout for elaborate bird houses.

Of course there was the spa in the afternoon. Today we did a skin scrub, steam, outdoor whirlpool and waterbed relaxation. We caught up with some Germans we had taken a fitness class with and some Brits we had jacuzzied with previously. All so very convivial in robes and herbal tea.

Then it was time to hit the town for a little aperitivo.

Say what you will, but Italians have perfected enjoyment and good wine.

There is a healthy chance that we will not make Mass tomorrow, so we lit a candle for Chazy tonight with St. Ulrich.

Back to our chalet for another fabulous dinner, topped off by a glorious dessert buffet.

The last one is for Jean.

We stumbled upstairs to our heavenly bed, and remembered we had ordered another pillow (from the pillow menu) that is filled with Swiss Pine Wood shavings which is medically proven to lower your heart beat an ensure a deep night’s sleep.

Between that and the Anti Aging down pillow, you won’t recognize me when I get home!

E buon riposo!

We slept late and decided to forego skiing and just get to know this beautiful town. We saw a wonderful hotel with an outdoor pool and decided to check it out. As expected, the Cavellino Bianca is a perfect place for the grandchildren, replete with two Disneyesque mice out front. Something to think about….

This area reminds me of Romania. Lots of carved wood and old craftsmen. We tried to find some of the carvers in action, but just found their wood shops with no one working. We did find lots of wood cribs, where ancient logs are kept, just waiting to be turned into saintly statues. Now if this doesn’t remind you of Romania, I don’t know what does!

We walked for 5 miles up billy goat paths and just breathed the mountain air. Oh, I forgot to tell you about breakfast…I totally caved and ate the gorgeous bread and homemade jam immediately! Gabby would kill for all the toppings for yogurt, and Brad of course had 2 eggs over easy with bacon and toast — no matter where we are in the world, this is what he orders.

John would have loved all the teas. Speaking of John and Lisa, forgot to mention that they left for Milano, when we came East. They are having a great time in a luxurious hotel, having seen Leonardo’s Last Supper.

By 3;00 we decided to make full use of the spa. Massage, steam, whirlpool, relaxation lounges, and floating tanks with lights and headphones. It is truly an elaborate spa with juice machines and 100 teas and space age everything.

And then of course cocktail hour.

Followed by a ridiculously elaborate dinner. Buffet appetizers and salad in between a five course “light, vitality” dinner. It actually was a leisurely light meal, expertly served in a gorgeous setting. We are tucked into our Eiderdown with the window open a bit to let the mountain air in. Did I tell you the bathroom floors are heated? It’s not Erik’s hot toilet seats, but it’s close.

Buona Notte

I’ve been fascinated with the Alto Adige for years. More hotel rooms than people, and the most visited area of Italy per capita! Plus they have the German sense of efficiency with Italian food and hospitality. Win!

When was the last time a gas station attendant washed your window?

Or that you got a prosciutto and mostarda sandwich grilled with an excellent espresso at a gas station? Viva la Italia! This was the selection of candy at the gas station. We drove 2 lovely hours on the Autostrada, and 25 minutes on tiny hairpin mountain turns to get to Ortesei. After L’Albereta, Grodnerhof looked like a downer. Clean and cheerful, but not elegante at first glance. We unpacked and went to explore the little village, which turned out to be an Austrian/Italian ski Mecca! Three different gondolas with excellent bus transport to over 60 slopes and a gorgeous, vibrant village with ice sculptures every 10 feet. We got back to the hotel and explored the “Wellness Center”. We were greeted by Paolo, who rivaled Massimo, and led us in a stretch class (yes, your father did this), and then went into the 3 saunas, steam room, ice room, plunge pool, swimming pool and relaxation center with 100 teas and juices and “vitality buffet”. No pics today, but some tomorrow, including the immersion sauna with essential oils, followed by cold fruit. I LOVE this place!!!As if that wasn’t enough there is a pillow menu. I went with the anti aging down pillow. And then there was the bar and dinner….And let’s not forget about the fireplace, fooseball (for Jeffrey) and live music. Total happiness.

And I leave you with:

Buona Notte / Gute Nacht