Author: leanagallagher

So we’re obviously not missing anything at either house. The weather in the mountains has been really mild. We woke to a slight dusting of snow, and then cloudy skies. We planned to take the cable car up to the plateau and go for a long walk and a toboggan ride part way down, but it was so cloudy we opted to walk the old rail trail instead.We stopped at huts, listened to the church bells, and followed the old route from Ortisei to Santa Christina. It was a truly leisurely walk of about 3 hours with the locals. Babies and dogs and not an English speaker among them. Have I mentioned that we haven’t met or heard one American since we landed? Confirmation of a trip well planned — we are truly away.

We walked through some neighborhoods on the way back and Brad got to ogle all the perfectly stacked wood at every house, the gorgeous carvings and the ancient wood cribs. Brad is dying to get his hands on some of the old maple and Swiss pine.

Cool sign, right?

If you could smell this place, you’d be in heaven! Cured meats, fresh baked strudel, puffy pizza….. sensory overload.

We headed back to our hotel and just decided to have a down afternoon. A little pasta carbonara, a little reading, and a steam and jacuzzi. Perfect lazy Sunday afternoon.

We headed out to our favorite outdoor bar for a little wine. They give you blankets and hot water bottles to keep you warm. I just ordered 4 of them for Amelia — we gotta try it at home! Our last walk around town at night, and we caught the evening service at St. Ulrich. Beautiful, and like time travel. Smoke from all the chimneys, choir singing, church bells ringing….. And then onto our final dinner. Exquisite as usual.

Every course brings more fresh silverware. We must use 8 sets a meal between cheese, fruit and dinner and dessert. What a way to live.

On to Milano in the morning. I’ve really enjoyed this Austrian/Italian village, and we felt very much at home here. I understand why people come back to the Grodnerhof every year — we might become one of them.

So we’re clearly living large.

We slept late again and decided to rent skis and go cross country skiing in a mountain bowl. The ski rentals are within the hotel and the car was in the garage 5 feet away, and the Wilhelm, who fit us, was easy on the eyes. Good start.

We drove further in the valley to Selva di Val Gardena where the signs are in German first, Italian second. Of course we made a rookie mistake and turned too quickly and ended in the Carabinieri’s training camp, which was a two way, one track road. After some gnashing of teeth, we made an unglamorous U Turn and found our way to the parking lot to be greeted by a circle of majestic mountains.

Brad is always so patient with me. I’m a terrible skier, with no balance at all, but I do love it. I only fell twice. :). Then of course we stopped for Brad’s daily strudel and a look around the famous woodworkers shops.

They explained how they start with a block of wood, have a machine carve a basic shape, and then begin the two week process of carving, followed by painting.

We enjoyed meeting these craftsmen and and it gave Ampy some good ideas for his projects this summer. Be on the lookout for elaborate bird houses.

Of course there was the spa in the afternoon. Today we did a skin scrub, steam, outdoor whirlpool and waterbed relaxation. We caught up with some Germans we had taken a fitness class with and some Brits we had jacuzzied with previously. All so very convivial in robes and herbal tea.

Then it was time to hit the town for a little aperitivo.

Say what you will, but Italians have perfected enjoyment and good wine.

There is a healthy chance that we will not make Mass tomorrow, so we lit a candle for Chazy tonight with St. Ulrich.

Back to our chalet for another fabulous dinner, topped off by a glorious dessert buffet.

The last one is for Jean.

We stumbled upstairs to our heavenly bed, and remembered we had ordered another pillow (from the pillow menu) that is filled with Swiss Pine Wood shavings which is medically proven to lower your heart beat an ensure a deep night’s sleep.

Between that and the Anti Aging down pillow, you won’t recognize me when I get home!

E buon riposo!

We slept late and decided to forego skiing and just get to know this beautiful town. We saw a wonderful hotel with an outdoor pool and decided to check it out. As expected, the Cavellino Bianca is a perfect place for the grandchildren, replete with two Disneyesque mice out front. Something to think about….

This area reminds me of Romania. Lots of carved wood and old craftsmen. We tried to find some of the carvers in action, but just found their wood shops with no one working. We did find lots of wood cribs, where ancient logs are kept, just waiting to be turned into saintly statues. Now if this doesn’t remind you of Romania, I don’t know what does!

We walked for 5 miles up billy goat paths and just breathed the mountain air. Oh, I forgot to tell you about breakfast…I totally caved and ate the gorgeous bread and homemade jam immediately! Gabby would kill for all the toppings for yogurt, and Brad of course had 2 eggs over easy with bacon and toast — no matter where we are in the world, this is what he orders.

John would have loved all the teas. Speaking of John and Lisa, forgot to mention that they left for Milano, when we came East. They are having a great time in a luxurious hotel, having seen Leonardo’s Last Supper.

By 3;00 we decided to make full use of the spa. Massage, steam, whirlpool, relaxation lounges, and floating tanks with lights and headphones. It is truly an elaborate spa with juice machines and 100 teas and space age everything.

And then of course cocktail hour.

Followed by a ridiculously elaborate dinner. Buffet appetizers and salad in between a five course “light, vitality” dinner. It actually was a leisurely light meal, expertly served in a gorgeous setting. We are tucked into our Eiderdown with the window open a bit to let the mountain air in. Did I tell you the bathroom floors are heated? It’s not Erik’s hot toilet seats, but it’s close.

Buona Notte

I’ve been fascinated with the Alto Adige for years. More hotel rooms than people, and the most visited area of Italy per capita! Plus they have the German sense of efficiency with Italian food and hospitality. Win!

When was the last time a gas station attendant washed your window?

Or that you got a prosciutto and mostarda sandwich grilled with an excellent espresso at a gas station? Viva la Italia! This was the selection of candy at the gas station. We drove 2 lovely hours on the Autostrada, and 25 minutes on tiny hairpin mountain turns to get to Ortesei. After L’Albereta, Grodnerhof looked like a downer. Clean and cheerful, but not elegante at first glance. We unpacked and went to explore the little village, which turned out to be an Austrian/Italian ski Mecca! Three different gondolas with excellent bus transport to over 60 slopes and a gorgeous, vibrant village with ice sculptures every 10 feet. We got back to the hotel and explored the “Wellness Center”. We were greeted by Paolo, who rivaled Massimo, and led us in a stretch class (yes, your father did this), and then went into the 3 saunas, steam room, ice room, plunge pool, swimming pool and relaxation center with 100 teas and juices and “vitality buffet”. No pics today, but some tomorrow, including the immersion sauna with essential oils, followed by cold fruit. I LOVE this place!!!As if that wasn’t enough there is a pillow menu. I went with the anti aging down pillow. And then there was the bar and dinner….And let’s not forget about the fireplace, fooseball (for Jeffrey) and live music. Total happiness.

And I leave you with:

Buona Notte / Gute Nacht

We had an outing today, but of course we began with cappuccino and then the spa.

Brad started with Massimo, and me with Fiorella. We both came back like putty. Who would think that a 9AM massage was such a good thing? It puts you in the right frame of mind.

The morning was beautiful, full of clear skies and sunshine, and we headed out to the small mountain in the center of Lake Iseo, called Monte Isola.

Finding the ferry was the hardest part of the trip. The island was all but abandoned, which was glorious! We walked through cobbled streets and passageways, visited the church, walked through some hiking trails and of course had a two course lunch with wine, which was stupendous. Did I mention that the specialty of the island is cured sardines from the lake? We got to see some drying as well as having them for lunch. They were delicious!

The best part of the island were the cats…. this is for you Maria.

We took the ferry back and stopped at a birrificio that John was interested in. He finally got to have a dark beer!

We ambled home on a road that totally rivaled the worst of Scotland. Lots of moving away from the door in hopes that our car wouldn’t catapult down a ravine. Captain Brad got us through it, and we hung at the Albergo for the evening. A little swim, a little sauna, a little wine and salad (and cuttlefish pasta) at the bar. Such a gorgeous place to come home to.

I forgot to tell you. I lit a candle for Chazy in the Church. She would have hated the island (no stores) and she would have never climbed the hill to get to the church. I did it anyway.

Well Giordano really put me over the edge yesterday. I slept till 8:30 this morning for the first time since Chazy got sick, and I actually got out of bed with zero pain. A good massage therapist is worth their weight in gold.

I gave Brad my massage appointment today and went on a walk through the vineyards with John. We stumbled onto the owners car collection and took pictures for Brad. After our walk I met Brad at the gym (he was doing the exercises Massimo gave him) and then pool, steam and shower. Here are. Couple photos of the spa:

We found an Outlet Mall nearby and met my dear friend Cathryn for a little retail therapy and a Sicilian lunch. Yes, spa, outlet mall and dear friend in one day. The boys went to the Mille Miglia Museum to kick a few tires.

We topped off the day with fantastic pizza from Il Filliale, an offshoot of Franco Pepe’s great pizzeria in Campagnia. And what a pizzeria it is!

Magical day. I feel like myself again. Lisa feels better than she has in the longest time. I’m feeling like we’re on a new path.

Just so you know what you’re missing.

These are decidedly not Dunkin’ Donuts!

Well, it is what it’s cracked up to be.

An Italian spa is a beautiful thing. I was awake early and went out to watch the sun rise, had a cappuccino, stretched at the gym, had a gorgeous breakfast, went for a walk in the vineyards surrounding the property, met one of my dearest friends and was pummeled and tested and soaked and buffed.

No real pictures because I was offline all day, but trust me, it was otherworldly. There was a moment when Cathryn, Lisa and I had emerged from the hydro massage detox mud treatment when we couldn’t really talk.

There was a lunch with caviar and a gorgeous salad. There was a stroll through Brunello Cucinelli and Lori Piano merchandise, there was the trying on of designer jewelry……. Viva Italia!

So as not to deprive you of visuals, here are some photos from Lisa’s suite:

Brad and John had massages and went to the gym. Brad had a training session with Massimo, who looks like an elegant rogue Italian film star that Brad would absolutely hate. Of course they’ve become best buds, talked golf (Massimo was a trainer to several PGA golfers), and he’s been invited to Newbury this summer. I will try to get a picture of them together because it’s priceless.

The boys then went on a private tour of the Beretta factory. It is the largest gun manufacturer in the world, and they thoroughly enjoyed it.Cathryn was kind enough to bring Brad and I a few of her creations, so be prepared for us to look like Gianni and Marella Angelli shortly.

Being Monday, pickings were slim for dining choices, but we found a country restaurant up on a hill overlooking Lake Iseo. After an inauspicious beginning, we were delighted with the meal and wines.

A day in paradise.

Brad slept not one wink, John not far behind him. Lisa and I stretched out on empty rows and slept like babies. I did watch one episode of: Totally delicious.

We picked up our car and headed for the Franciacorta vineyards and found our luxurious Albergho waiting for us with open arms. They insisted on us having a glass while they brought up our bags. Who could argue? Brad is very sleepy….. The room is Grouper worthy!John and Brad needed sleep, Lisa and I had Detox massages which included cupping — highly recommend — and then we bathed and dressed for the Michelin 3 star dinner. Fabulous on every level. The bread and olive oil is for Christina, the Cocchi is for Janet, and the desserts are for all of you. Pictures do not do the Zuppz Inglese with meringue, the Sacher Torte with clementine, or the Giadiuja Bomba justice. Five courses and a gorgeous 2015 local Pinot Noir. Buona Notte.

TWA Hotel for a quick look. Such a fun place.

Onto the plane, we each had a whole row to sleep on. Uneventful flight, and here we are sipping Franciacorta in front of the fire.

And now onto massages and dinner.