Ciao Ciao

Our last few hours in Taormina were tear jerkingly blissful. Breakfast on the terrazzo with the lavish spread and perfect cappuccini. I tried a bit of willpower today and only had yogurt and fruit (the dried figs were otherworldly), avocado toast Sicilian style with caramelized Tropea onions, and house smoked swordfish and breseola with chicory salad with special Sicilian lemons that have large edible pith. Brad had bacon and eggs with white toast.

We did a short walk up and down the hills and alleys of Taormina. There are 93 restaurants and God knows how many hotels in this tiny place. Even the shabby corners are beautiful.

We met a couple of cats and chatted with a vegetable vendor and headed back to the hotel for the last bit of Principessa time.

We actually discussed not going to Paris. But as in most things in life, best to leave on a high note.

So off to Catania to stand in lines with throngs of budget travelers and their bulky luggage to take EasyJet to Paris. I am back to being a pedestrian. It was such fun while it lasted.

Notes on Sicily while they are fresh in my mind: Every time we mentioned anything, the response was always “I think that is the best one”. They want you to feel that you have chosen well — the room, the table, the menu item, the city — always the best one. They smile and make eye contact and greet you. There is not a man that does not own a pair of white leather sneakers and wears them with a suit, and there is not a young woman without a tattoo above her heel.

It was a fantasy to stay at the San Domenico Palace. I loved pretending I belonged there, and my God, is it gorgeous! However, my heart is in Noto and Siracusa — they are my people. I love the easy shrugs and the crumbling grandeur and the laughter and the feeling that all will take care of itself in time. They are warm and accepting and generous and a little garrulous.

I never mentioned masking — ubiquitous. Everyone, everywhere. Everyone is exhausted by it, like the rest of the world, but they are respectful of others, and the country is 92% vaccinated and 80% boosted. We may still get sick, but it’s not for the lack of trying to keep everyone safe.